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1940s Westfield Sports Roadster

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SirMike1983

Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
My current project is a 1940s Westfield lightweight. I thought initially it was a 1947, but the first letter of the serial could be an "L" or an "E". The strike is poor and it is hard to tell. It has some interesting features, including a non-pin type one piece crank. It uses a tapered section of crank to lock the sprocket, not a separate pin protrusion. The bars also are the older type "script" Torringtons. Interestingly, the seat stays bolt to the seat cluster rather than are welded, similar to the English roadsters.

http://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2015/05/westfield-sports-roadster-progress.html

http://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2015/05/westfield-sports-roadster.html

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Does anyone know if there is a separate oiler "cap and spring" for the New Departure Model D? My hub has the oiler neck in the shell, but no flip cap or spring for the oiler neck. I've never seen anyone selling just the cap and spring though.
 
very cool!
Looks like the chain wheel might take a heavy-duty 1/2" chain?



I hadn't taken a close look at the chain. The crank set is sort of weird- no pin or any of that, the sprocket keys in over a tapered section of crank arm. Here's a shot of the sprocket teeth-

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I think this one is a 1940 on further inspection. Cleaning revealed that the letter on the bottom bracket looks like an "E" and the front tire had a 1940 date code.
 
cool bike MIke - does the seat stay having a bolt typically mean it is prewar? I thought I had read that somewhere?
 
cool bike MIke - does the seat stay having a bolt typically mean it is prewar? I thought I had read that somewhere?

Mr. Columbia thought it was a short-lived, post-war feature from the 1940s. I never even knew Westfield did it at all. It comes from English-style designs, that had bolt-on seat stays. My guess is that Westfield looked to English-type bikes for inspiration. I initially thought the letter on the bottom bracket was an "L", which would be 1947. I did some more cleaning and found another mark that makes it seem more an "E"- it's poorly stamped either way. I pulled the tires from the rims and one had a 1940 date stamp on it, so that would match the "E"/1940 thought.

http://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2015/06/i-did-some-work-on-sports-roadster-this.html

It also has that odd, "key-in" bottom bracket set up without a drive pin. The crank axle itself tapers and the sprocket keys into a tapered section. There's no separate pin like on most one piece crank bikes. Definitely something worth preserving on this one.
 
I did the same thing with my rollfast. Was able to slip (with great hand strength) a pair of tires on
 
I need to do the same thing with my '46 Compax Traveler because the rims are rusted too badly and have deep pits. I mocked it up with Raleigh ISO 590 wheels but didn't like the larger gap between the fender and the tire. ISO 590's do allow more tire choices so I might need to find a taller tire. Using Schwinn ISO 597 doesn't leave many tire choices. Please give lots of details on your solution. I've never built a wheel. FWIW, I'm putting a 1941 Schwinn New World together and Kenda K23 go on and off the Superior rims with only thumb pressure. Aired them up and they spin decently on my truing stand.
 
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