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1941/46 CWC Something or Other frickin frame

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I'm a bit of a CWC 3 gill guy but damm that's a cool frame!, If you ever let it go I'm in!
 
Standard size for a pre & post war CWC 3 gill frame is around 18" so as I said it's either CWC attempt at a shorty frame or somebody modified a frame or it's a 24" frame, the head size does look like a 24 and the bars look to close to fit a standard tank. somebody chime in here? @fordmike65, @Freqman1, anyone?
I think you are right about the shorter 24" frame as I had one of these frames that I had got from my brother Joe and traded up for a twin bar Monark a while back.. COOOL looking bike any way.. Should be a good fit for you.. RideOn.. Mark..
 
So before I break out the drill...

This bike is so rusty and seized up. A day in triflow did not matter. The bolt from the headset into the fork (which I assumed would be in a quill but is not) snapped off inside the fork. I can't get the screw out of the fender to seperate that from the fork either.

Thinking the Oxalic bath might help the fender screw... but what do you guys suggest to get the bolt out of the fork without blowing out the threads?
Break out the "Flame wrench " and heat her up good to cherry red and grab it with a vice grips and it should turn out.. Good luck...
 
Well, the question now becomes: to paint or not to paint.

The second bar was removed and welded as well, not sure if the "Short Man's Frame" someone posted the other was an actual thing or something people did just to modify. The chrome on the handlebars is shot. The OA bath did nothing to save it, chainring is looking great. I hit this with a light coat of clear to keep it from rerusting.

I am torn, now that it is not "original" with the modified Frame, I want to replace the bars because I love my chrome. I am going to replace all the spokes for integrity sake. Ugh... looking for input on a value level here from those that know. In the end, I am still looking for a Monark and this will go to my boyfriend. Not planning to sell, but nice to keep as much original as possible right?

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If you like your chrome as much as I do, take your handlebars down to bare metal and rattle can them with some silver paint and they look really nice this way and a lot cheaper than replating.....
 
Well, the question now becomes: to paint or not to paint.

The second bar was removed and welded as well, not sure if the "Short Man's Frame" someone posted the other was an actual thing or something people did just to modify. The chrome on the handlebars is shot. The OA bath did nothing to save it, chainring is looking great. I hit this with a light coat of clear to keep it from rerusting.

I am torn, now that it is not "original" with the modified Frame, I want to replace the bars because I love my chrome. I am going to replace all the spokes for integrity sake. Ugh... looking for input on a value level here from those that know. In the end, I am still looking for a Monark and this will go to my boyfriend. Not planning to sell, but nice to keep as much original as possible right?

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leave it be
 
That front post with the lower bar being brazed and l am pretty sure that's leaded to make smooth. Lead is most likely why the paint fails on these types of jointing methods, it oxidizes or whatever as microscopic stuff grows on old lead when any moisture has gotten to it.. It would be mainly used over brass brazing to make the joint smooth and otherwise looks correct. Or rather, in girl's I have a 48-9 and the center bar in-between top and lower are brazed and smooth. The upper stays are also brazed to the seat post.

On pre-war lower rear stays are straight, yours are curved, that's a sure sign of post war bike. Additionally, the fork's shoulders are just like Schwinn's. Pre-war is similar except the shoulders have bumps on em, like 'Sholder pads' You can just about see this on mrg's examples that also have straight rear stays. They also have, in front, a little molded-in extension for a fender screw mount.

That rear drop-out is also a post war feature, I think before 1948.

Yet that brazed on bottom bracket, that's pretty odd for a 46 but, whelp, the danged frame is odd to.

I also have the same 41 girl's bike mrg shows but house painted many, many years ago: ears, shoulder pads peaked fenders, straight fender brackets and a ladies seat except for one weird thing. The danged serial numbers make no sense at all. A few numbers couple of letters and jumbled like nobody's ever seen.

However, for an old interview where he was bragging about having more than 100 different badges on his desktop; I think; The CWC dude was like the mad hatter or a kid in a candy store, tossing all kinds of different things together, mixing paint colors and styles, head badges, old parts on new, U name it so, in some cases, U just never know why or what he'd toss up and hit the floor. .

I mean, all those badges, I expect he'd make them for anybody who walked in the door to buy a package of bikes to be made.
Potentially this frame may have been designed earlier but shelved pre-war or during WWII and for the 1946 date, revisited with post war materials.
 
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