When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1948 Cws English Roadster

#eBayPartner    Most Recent BUY IT NOW Items Listed on eBay
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
I looked back through my photos and found pictures of the CWS.
cws-1.jpg
cws-2.jpg
cws-3.jpg
cws-4.jpg
cws-5.jpg
 
I've never seen one with an actual headbadge. If I'm reading the hub date correctly (65) your bike was close to the end of the line for the CWS bicycles. I've seen several examples of boot bikes that CWS built in the sixties to compete with the Raleigh RWS, Twenty and the Moultons, but only one other full sized CWS bike.
 
I spent some time restoring the Lucas generator set and it is looking presentable. Next, I tore down the pedals. The rusty parts are soaking ovrenight. Upon reassembly, the caged bearings will be replaced with loose ball bearings. The older, rebuildable, English pedals are nearly bomb-proof.

P1010170.JPG
 
If you own more than one bike with cottered cranks, the Bike Smith press is the way to go. The press takes the worry out of freeing the pins-- no worrying about mushrooming the cotter or having to drill.
 
If you own more than one bike with cottered cranks, the Bike Smith press is the way to go. The press takes the worry out of freeing the pins-- no worrying about mushrooming the cotter or having to drill.

Also, the proper way to install cotters is to press them in. The nut is only there to secure them. With so many soft cotters on the market, it is even more critical to press rather than draw them in.
 
The pedals are now rebuilt with new bearings and installed on the crank arms.

Time now to turn the attention to the rear hub. The bearing cones are a touch too tight so the wheel will be coming off again for an adjustment. When the cones are too snug, there is a noticeable drag when turning the sprocket. Taking the time to get this adjustment right makes for a very smooth running hub.

Next up, it will be time to install the indicator rod and chain. The indicator rod for the FW is unique to the hub. It is somewhat delicate and has very fine threads. If the indicator rod is lost or damaged, it is extremely hard to locate replacements - almost to the point of replacing the FW with an AW hub. I check Ebay every so often for a spare and have not seen one yet in two years of looking. The indicator rod is pictured below.

P1010171.JPG
 
I love the FW hub. I set mine up with a relatively low gear ratio so that B and L are dedicated climbers, N is pushing against the wind or light duty climbing, and H is flat cruise or slightly downhill. If it's a steep downhill, I coast.
 
Hi. I just bought a CWS bike in San Jose, CA today at the flea market. I have found you and the guy that runs the Oldbike.eu online museum I believe he is in England and he only has two CWS bikes and talks a lot about fun it was researching the bikes so it does not seem even he knew much about them. I am not a collector but this bike just made me buy it. The cooperative story is kind of cool too. I am charging my phone right now but will post some pics when it's charged up. It looks very much like the one you identify as a 1951 though I am thinking you are way off. I am thinking they are late 1930s. The ONLY difference I can see between the one you call a "1951" and one I purchased is the sprocket pattern. The stamped number on mine is in the same location as yours and it is 7815. I am thinking this indicates Model 7 which came out in 1936.. CWS also produced Federal and Hurricane brand (the girls bike above).

Also, what do you make of the frame construction differences between the bolted rear of the "1951" and the brazed/welded rear of the "1948"

This link is an advertisement for the Model 7 from June 1936. You can see it is the same exact model, including 3 speed, as the one you're calling 1951. I think you are going to be happy it didnt sell. I think you might be right on this one being a 1948 but I think the other one is earlier.
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/images/5/5e/Im19360603Cy-CWS.jpg

Here is a 1951 Raleigh catalog where you can see the brakes have already changed. https://oldbike.wordpress.com/1951-raleigh-catalogue/

Here you have one that looks similar to your "1951" which I think is 1930s Model 7 and it was a barn find in England and the guy says his dad has been in bicycle industry for 30 years and never seen one before. https://www.gumtree.com/p/bicycles/cws-cycle-works-vintage-antique-bike-bicycle-like-bsa/1233950659

Here is a link to one that rolled through an Illinois bike shop the OP dates to late 40s-early50s. He may be incorrect but two big changes are the metal head badge and the brakes. Gents version of the girls CWS Hurricane bike posted above by Fat Tire Trader
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/gentlemancyclist/PsbWpv9MUF0

Here is the oldbike.eu guys bikes
A 1939 Tradesman Delivery Cycle
https://oldbike.wordpress.com/1939-cws-co-op-delivery-cycle/

More info and literature/ads for CWS
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/C._W._S._Cycles
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Co-operative_Wholesale_Society_(CWS)

In case you are interested, here is some info on the CWS motorcycles. https://vintagemotorcyclecwsfederal1922.wordpress.com/
 
Back
Top