slowride
Finally riding a big boys bike
Grips - the old ones are shot. If they'll come in one piece, I use a utility knife to make a slit in the grip, then pull off each half. If it's beyond that point, then I usually remove with a putty knife if I can chip them away. Any remaining "goo" from the grips is wiped clean with acetone or rubbing alcohol, whichever I happen to have on hand. Don't get any solvents on the paint - they won't hurt the plating, but they can pull paint if you are sloppy.
With an old saddle like that, I use a Proofhide. I haven't ever tried sanding surface cracks, and I don't think it is necessary to do so. Check around the rivets (especially the nose ones) for deeper tears. If the saddle is structurally OK, apply proofhide per the usual instructions. It may be necessary to do a second coat after a couple of days if the saddle is very dry. But the second treatment should be more sparing. You want to get a little bit of moisture into the saddle, but not so much that you over-soften it. Do not tension the saddle while the leather is very dry, or right after proofhide treatment. It may distort or damage the leather.
The FM hub should get fresh grease in the bearing races and fresh oil in the core of the hub. You may need to blow it clean with WD-40 before re-lubing. General maintenance is somewhat different from the AW. Some of the FM series hubs have a fault with the left-side ball cup whereby the ball cup teeth break off and destroy the hub if the rider attempts to ride the bike after the tooth has broken free. (see http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/sa-maintenance-blakeley-rest.html ). You'll want to check closely for rattling or play in the hub that indicate something would be wrong. I'd clean the hub first and then see what turns up. Sturmey materials are online here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/fc.html .
The purpose of the FM is to give four gears in relatively close (the FC is even closer) ratio. This gives the rider a good chance at accelerating through the gears quickly from a start and then hitting a desired cadence. The trade-off is you lose some of the overall range that you get on the general-purpose AW and FW hubs. I like the FW better for hills but the FM is good if you're a stronger rider or have a flatter area where you're riding.
Many thanks Mike for all info on FM, saddle, and grips. Instead of flip top filler there is a spring loaded ball fitting (as is bottom bracket) as if made for special proprietary oil dispenser . Looks to me similar to grease fitting. Guess I will have to unscrew. I’ve always disassembled and cleaned AWs but Since parts more difficult to source for FM /FC and therefore risk of opening up and damaging , you think safer to just flush it and add oil and grease bearings? Some say not to use wd40 as residues will remain behind cut the oil when added later, etc. is this just people going overboard or should first flush with wd40 then mineral spirits?
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