1954 or 1956 Cycle Truck Restoration

[ventana]

John, thanks for the quick response. The parts in my photo are the parts that I have and received with the parts CT some years ago.
"Then slip the 3/8" by 24 thread Bendix coaster brake axle through the hub and the fork holes."
If this is how it is done then I must have the wrong axle. The cones that I have thread onto the 5/16" threaded quill. I did turn the cone down on the short threaded end until it bottomed out on the quill shoulder. That makes perfect sense. However, the 5/16" cones have an internal thread of 3/8"-24 tpi (please see photo) so the axle cannot slip through the fork hole and the cones since they are the same major diameter. Is there another smaller diameter axle that I should be using? Or, do I have the wrong cones? I suspect that cones that are not internally threaded but provide a slip fit for the 3/8" diameter axle is what is needed. Thanks.

 

[ventana]

John;
Please accept my apology. My assessment of my 5/16" cones is entirely incorrect. They are not threaded on the I.D. at 3/8"-24 tpi. They are a slip fit for the 3/8" dia. axle as you said. My mistake.
So in this application you do not use a separate cone locking nut. Once adjusted the cone is locked against the axle nuts to the required amount of clearance? If so that is the only time I have seen that application on a Schwinn bicycle (or any bicycle) but that certainly solves my mystery on how the front wheel is held in place on a CT. This means that the two cone locking nuts shown in my photo (bottom line third position in) are entirely
superfluous.
Do you recommend using any thrust washers at all between the fork and the axle nuts? I didn't want to lace up the front hub until I had this problem completely solved. Thanks again for the instructions.
Have Fun;
Ventana

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

John;
Please accept my apology. My assessment of my 5/16" cones is entirely incorrect. They are not threaded on the I.D. at 3/8"-24 tpi. They are a slip fit for the 3/8" dia. axle as you said. My mistake.
So in this application you do not use a separate cone locking nut. Once adjusted the cone is locked against the axle nuts to the required amount of clearance? If so that is the only time I have seen that application on a Schwinn bicycle (or any bicycle) but that certainly solves my mystery on how the front wheel is held in place on a CT. This means that the two cone locking nuts shown in my photo (bottom line third position in) are entirely
superfluous.
Do you recommend using any thrust washers at all between the fork and the axle nuts? I didn't want to lace up the front hub until I had this problem completely solved. Thanks again for the instructions.
Have Fun;
Ventana

Slip the axle through the (non-slotted) CT fork ends and the axle quill on the hub after you get the wheel positioned. It helps to use a #2 Phillips Screwdriver to help align everything. No lock nuts between the cone and the inside of the fork. If you have enough axle length, I would place a thick 3/8" flat washer against the fork, then the fender braces, then a thin "AN" flat washer, then the axle nut. You will need to use an 11/16" wrench on both sides at the same time because the axle is free floating. You will need to have two 3/4" cone wrenches to adjust the bearing adjustment, while the wheel is mounted on the bike.

John

 

[ventana]

Ok, just need one more 3/4" cone wrench. I'll order that just as soon as I get the front wheel laced. I'll start on that tomorrow. I pretty slow lacing up a rim and never done a complete heavy-duty hub with 12ga spokes. Should be fun. Installing the wheel sounds simple enough. Thanks for letting me know how it is done.
Michael