1962 "Schwinn! Classic Custom" King Size

[WillWork4Parts]

Will the spacer washer and a cup that's not severely worn out solve your clearance issue? Here's a shot of my 62 Corvette and I kept the my phone as close to vertical as I could with the frame. The sprocket has plenty of clearance and the chain line is back on the stand tube.

View attachment 2161863

The severely worn cups/bearings/cones have all been removed from the frame in question and put in the time-out box. It rides with the BB set robbed from my 62 Typhoon And a spacer washer. The sprocket is still only spaced the thickness of that spacer washer away from the kickstand housing, that minimal spacing doesn't seem like something planned to me. Yours looks to be what I expect, like all the other factory spacing.
I'm trying to figure out if this is something common to that production time, to the American King Size, or just my specific frame.

 

[WillWork4Parts]

To the best of my knowledge, all of those postwar Schwinn 9 bearing bottom bracket sets for electroforged Schwinns are interchangeable both as assemblies or as parts. You have already discovered more differences than I knew about. Now to be clear, I am no sort of expert on the subject, and this all comes from working on bikes when I was a kid, so you should take my posts on the subject with a grain of salt. Nevertheless, the fact that you found no difference in the "stack height" of these does not surprise me at all. I don't recall ever having any trouble with that. These sets were predictable in that they were always made of high quality hard steel, and almost always still good when found in the wild. I used to put them in non-Schwinns. I have one of those sets in my 81 RaceLine right now.

There is cup variation, but not like we have been discussing. Some are machined with a square shouldered O.D., some with a rounded O.D., and some even appear stamped. I have never noticed any incompatibility. Until someone proves otherwise, I believe those bottom bracket sets are all made to the same stack height.

I have noticed some frames with anomalies where the factory appears to have missed slightly welding the frame together. Of course years after the fact I don't know for sure what I was looking at, but it sure seems that way. I think they just missed a little on your kickstand. It sticks out further than on my 61, and further than the other bike you posted. How did Schwinn get it out the door? If they had thrown it on the scrap pile, we wouldn't be discussing it now. I'll bet they put a washer on it. I'll also bet that if you set up the chainline perfectly straight a stock chainwheel will miss that kickstand. My 61 has at least 2mm of spacer in it. Maybe Schwinn put it in there, maybe I did. I don't know. It is clear even measuring with a ruler that it did not need that ~2mm for clearance.
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Those cup variations changed throughout the years and eventually came down to the standard that you see on the 60s bikes on up. They were made with that rough edge for a while and it looks like eventually Schwinn started to burnish that edge away, but it wasn't always made to look 100% pretty, much like the frame welds.
The square shouldered O.D. you are talking about was used prewar and even in the 50s with some finish and machining changes. I didn't know it until recently, but the DX models even had their own line of BB sets and headsets that were cheaper. The DX BB sets had a rougher edged cup very similar in appearance to the 60s cups we are talking about.
This is why I cannot stress more importance about keeping your bearing sets together and replace single parts with like parts(in terms of stamping/forming lines) if you have singled out pieces of sets.
This is one of my non-Schwinn and odd-duck organizers.

 

[bloo]

Now that is organized!

I bought a square shouldered 9 bearing set once, but one of the cups was bent. Don't ask how, I have no idea. You could still see the machining marks from the lathe so it obviously wasn't made egg shaped. Attempts to straighten it were futile. The prewar ones are square on the back like that, at least some of them, but are sized for 10 bearing cages and cones (well it's probably really pre-46 rather than prewar according to earlier posts above). I agree you should keep them all together with original parts (and don't even get me started on headsets LOL! Those are a minefield.). As long as it is all 9 bearing and all real Chicago Schwinn parts I think you can get away with mixing pieces of these bottom brackets when you have bad parts. I have done so in the past.
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[coasterbrakejunkie1969]

@WillWork4Parts my early Jan '62 KSA has a bunch of room and no spacer. My guess slightly off on the stand weld and a spacer was added on the line to make it fit before it went out the door if I'm reading this right.

 

[WillWork4Parts]

@WillWork4Parts my early Jan '62 KSA has a bunch of room and no spacer. My guess slightly off on the stand weld and a spacer was added on the line to make it fit before it went out the door if I'm reading this right.

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Thank you, this is what I was about to ask for in the KS registry!

 

[GTs58]

The frame and frame parts building definitely play a role in all of this. Look at BB sell and stay welds. The BB shell is deformed looking like the belly of a fat person between the stay nubs. The nubs for the stays will move (spacing) when the shell is made. The shells are honed for the BB cups and the gap from edge of shell to stay nub could be different. This is most likely caused by worn-out or misaligned stamping dies? This is a 1961 Corvette five speed frame. Not all my frames look like this.

 

[coasterbrakejunkie1969]

Thank you, this is what I was about to ask for in the KS registry!

I don't know what the issue is exactly but without measuring the amount ,where he back side of my kick stand extends over the chain stay is smaller like the overlap on '62 Typhoon that is shown in the earlier post. I'm not fully familiar with the assembly process but perhaps the placement of that kickstand bracket can vary during assembly.

 

[WillWork4Parts]

The frame and frame parts building definitely play a role in all of this. Look at BB sell and stay welds. The BB shell is deformed looking like the belly of a fat person between the stay nubs. The nubs for the stays will move (spacing) when the shell is made. The shells are honed for the BB cups and the gap from edge of shell to stay nub could be different. This is most likely caused by worn-out or misaligned stamping dies? This is a 1961 Corvette five speed frame. Not all my frames look like this.


View attachment 2161908

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Yeah, that left hand stay is really close to the edge! Mine has a similar offset to the shell when comparing my KS American to my Typhoon, but not that bad.
Now I wonder how the BB shell facing tool was used...was it done in a frame jig, or was it done "as required" with no depth stop.

This is still something that's a big deal with BMX frame building, "post weld machining" and stress relieving. The frames popped out in mass production in China that are 4130 and thermal heat treated are sometimes not very well aligned because they get warped in the welding process and never checked or corrected afterwards.

This must be a combination of EF welding warp and kickstand fixtures drifting the parts in opposite directions.

 

[Rusty Klunker]

First, Merry Christmas to everyone!

Something is wrong, out of the thousands of bikes between us I haven't heard of one like this. I know of the shim and have seen it (just don't remember what model it was on) but never of clearance issues like this.
My last just throw together go to bike from parts is a 62 Typhoon. This bike was road hard and just beat!
Was in bad need of a crank and chainring and what I had available was mint gear from a 72 girls Collegiate 5sp. All I did was turn the chainring around used everything cones and bearings from the FH bike and have been riding it ever since. No clearance issues at all from frame to chainguard. No issues 72 parts on a 62 bike.

My 62 KSA frame built with 64 parts (I believe is original), 64 stamped crank has no shim and no clearance problems at all.

 

[WillWork4Parts]

First, Merry Christmas to everyone!

Something is wrong, out of the thousands of bikes between us I haven't heard of one like this. I know of the shim and have seen it (just don't remember what model it was on) but never of clearance issues like this.
My last just throw together go to bike from parts is a 62 Typhoon. This bike was road hard and just beat!
Was in bad need of a crank and chainring and what I had available was mint gear from a 72 girls Collegiate 5sp. All I did was turn the chainring around used everything cones and bearings from the FH bike and have been riding it ever since. No clearance issues at all from frame to chainguard. No issues 72 parts on a 62 bike.

My 62 KSA frame built with 64 parts (I believe is original), 64 stamped crank has no shim and no clearance problems at all.

View attachment 2162073

How close is the sprocket to the kickstand housing? I know the 5sp sprocket will have a different offset, but I can measure that difference between the sprockets I have.