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1965 Schwinn Heavy Duti King Size

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Not really much lately. The new tire rubs in the rear so that's a bummer. Not sure how to fix that aside from getting a different tire. I have a very dirty chain to clean for it and I'm not motivated to do so. Once that is done I'll likely take it to my shop to have the 3-speed hub refreshed, new cable, adjusted.

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Not really much lately. The new tire rubs in the rear so that's a bummer. Not sure how to fix that aside from getting a different tire. I have a very dirty chain to clean for it and I'm not motivated to do so. Once that is done I'll likely take it to my shop to have the 3-speed hub Prefreshed, new cable, adjusted.

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Is the tire rubbing on the fender or on the chain stays? Also check to see if the tire is properly seat on the rim cause that would make a difference. Good luck. Great looking bike. Razin.
 
I do. I appreciate it but for now one will be a stock cruiser and the other will be the subject of a klunker build since I parted it out a year or two ago and some of the KS specifc stuff (like the rear fender) is gone.

I'll let the fine people of the CABE know if that changes, though. I already have some trepidation given how ridiculously expensive even remotely cool vintage BMX parts are getting!
I have a nice SAKAE bmx stem that I would part with if it helps you out at all. Please let me know. Thanks and Happy Holodays. Razin.
 
I agree to razinhellcustomz to check the seating of the beads, it is not easy on Schwinn straight sided rims to get tires fully seated and centered. What hits? The fenders?

If you have diamond tread (which tends to be square profile) you might be able to switch to 2.0 Small Bricks and still run an oversize tire.

I am running the 2.0 Small bricks on my 61 Speedster, and I love them. The fenders didn't clear, but mine are Wald fenders, and are skimpier than Schwinn fenders. Also the brackets bolt rather than rivet, reducing clearance. I took them off, but I am sure I could have got them to work with a little massage, and your genuine fenders will have more room than I do.
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The tire is rubbing the fender at many points. There is a position in the dropouts where it does not rub as bad but the likelyhood of that being where the chain tension is correct is slim. I'll try checking the bead but I'm thinking that's pretty futile at this point given how it's uniformly rubbing.

It's tempting to just hog out the fender brace mounting holes for a little adjustability. Kinda frustrating to spend $55 on tires just to have this happen. I used to take this stuff in stride when I was younger then you add up all you spent and it's just suckers like me keeping the bike industry afloat with $75 here and $100 there... I think 2021 is the year I really reel this crap in and cut back my bike spending.

Thanks for the stem offer, @razinhellcustomz but I believe my buddy is fabbing up a Cook Bros slant/double clamp replica for me.
 
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The tire is rubbing the fender at many points. There is a position in the dropouts where it does not rub as bad but the likelyhood of that being where the chain tension is correct is slim. I'll try checking the bead but I'm thinking that's pretty futile at this point given how it's uniformly rubbing.

It's tempting to just hog out the fender brace mounting holes for a little adjustability. Kinda frustrating to spend $55 on tires just to have this happen. I used to take this stuff in stride when I was younger then you add up all you spent and it's just suckers like me keeping the bike industry afloat with $75 here and $100 there... I think 2021 is the year I really reel this crap in and cut back my bike spending.

Thanks for the stem offer, @razinhellcustomz but I believe my buddy is fabbing up a Cook Bros slant/double clamp replica for me.
Okay, but at what cost? I could make you a really sweet deal on this stem if interested. Thanks. Razin. P.s. this ones the real deal.
 
You might check and see if your chain is worn out. What rear hub do you have and how many teeth?

My Speedster is 2 speed kickback, 18 teeth, and has the same chainring you have. With a new chain, depending where you cut it, the axle can be either almost out the front of the dropout, or almost all the way back. Anything else requires a half link. I seriously doubt the factory screwed with half links much if any.

It turns out the axle should be way forward. Apparently Schwinn intended it like that. There was a thread recently about a Corvette, derailleur equipped, and it turns out that the axle winds up way forward like that, and on a derailleur bike you don't have to slide to tension the chain. Since then I have been paying attention to Schwinn middleweights when people post their serial numbers. On 1-2-3 speeds the old marks made by the axle washer are always way forward. There could be exceptions, but so far its been 100% since I have been watching.

You might just need a new chain and possibly one less link.

EDIT: 67 Panther from another CABE thread:

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Okay, but at what cost? I could make you a really sweet deal on this stem if interested. Thanks. Razin. P.s. this ones the real deal.
I appreciate it but my application is 22.2, not the 21.1 standard, too. So this will fit the bill just right. Thanks though!
 
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