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1968 Speedster

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AndyA

Wore out three sets of tires already!
For your viewing pleasure... a newly acquired Sky Blue 1968 Speedster with SA 3-speed coaster brake. Looks like all original, including handgrips and saddle. It does not have original tires. In fact, it has no tires. The Design Team has begun considering alternative approaches to this project.

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This might give you some inspiration. A three speed "SPEEDSTER" version like that would be fun! It would be the "adult version" of the kid's banana seat bike that you may have had back in 1969 when you were 8 years old. It would be easy to build and it would turn heads. You could choose any number of repro Schwinn seat tube decals to dress it up and make it look like Schwinn might have made. It is only a suggestion. Have fun with it, whatever you do.

 
The Design Team has been looking this over but deliberations have not resulted in a preliminary design consensus. One approach would be to add new wheels and wider tires (wider than the 26 X 1-3/8, which are the only size available for the S-5 rims) along with a BMX-style fork, stem, and handlebars. However, there is considerable support for saving the (very cool) SA 3-speed hub with coaster because of the performance benefits over a single speed. There is also support for the pseudo-Fastback concept suggested by Brother Arnold; however, there is some resistance to the addition of a banana seat from the Butt Comfort Subcommittee of the Ergonometric Commission. Perhaps a compromise will emerge in the near future.
 
Mine started out as a 67' one speed coaster.
With the seat post and the high stem, it fits me barely.
With the 2 speed kickback coaster, 27" tires and honed in gearing, its a great flat land bike.
It is a full custom now including changing the head badge style.
It has a 73' Chro-Mo Paramount fork (Japanese) and is kickstand delete with a chrome block-off.
GT Chro-Mo 7" arm crank, cageless BB, Sprint front hub and chainring.


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Kinda fun for a bike style that gets no attention because of its size. I constantly get compliments on it while riding in a bike crowd. I am going to do similar to this to every derelict camelback frame I find.

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One thing I would mention about these is that the seat stay to seat post welds are barely there on mine. These frames were meant for 150 lbs or less I'm sure. Considering its a 17" frame, and a weird geometry, those "electro" tacks might not hold up under actual slammin' and bammin' use.
I considered laying a MIG weld line underneath where it couldn't be seen but thought I'd be gentle enough on it, for it not to matter. I pretty much just ride it flat. No curbs, no hops. Maintains 25mph pretty well.
 
Oh no! I'm taking apart the hub (Sturmey Archer TCW Mark III with coaster brake) and the left side caged bearing is toast! Does anybody know the specs on the part and where I can get one? Please!! 😢
 
I wouldn't even try to fix it.
It will cost the same to get a more reliable S3C from a later bike or here or on Ebay etc.
Im sure a few people will chime in, but Ive had them both. If there are problems, its with a TCW.
  • 90 brake draw
  • jump out of gear, won't go in gear.
  • up hill, pop out of gear.... No gear at all = Shelled nuts
When they're touchy, something is out of whack

But someone was just selling a TCW here cheap a couple weeks ago.
 
I wouldn't even try to fix it.
Uncle Schwinny:
I'm taking your advice. The Parts Department yielded a 26-inch wheel with an AW hub. It just need a little cleanup and some oil and grease. The project is back on track. Just have to add a rear caliper brake (which I actually prefer to a coaster). Thanks!
 
Progress Report:
I retrieved a kinda cool BMX handlebar and some other bits from the Parts Department. The existing shifter cable was a bit shoddy and short, so I had to modify a brake cable to replace it. The old SA cable had a swaged bit that fits in the shifter. It didn't take much work to file down the cast end of a brake cable to fit. The chain wheel cleaned up pretty nice with some bronze wool and chrome polish. However, some of the crank was very rusty. The Finishing Team treated that with emery cloth followed by a denatured alcohol wipe down and a brush coat of Testors Flat Steel Enamel (#1180). I use old 1180 quite a bit; it covers nicely and gives a nice metal-like (but not chrome) surface.

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