1970 Raleigh Superbe Ladies help

[machtig]

I just got a pretty clean Superbe ladies edition from the local Salvation Army. I have two specific questions that I cant find answers to.
1. It came with the original frame pump. I want to try to get it working (best case) but i cannot figure out how to remove the shaft from the handle. Ive tried unscrewing it but didn’t go crazy on the torque because i don’t want to break it. Ive got it soaking in Aero Kroil for the time being. Also are there parts missing from the air chuck?
2. The rims and hubs seem to be in great condition but the spokes are grungy. Did the vintage Raleighs come with stainless steel spokes? These look galvanized but not sure.

My plans for the bike are to tear the bike down to parade rest; clean it up; service all the bearings and hubs; replace the cables, tires and tubes; refinish the saddle; and the wife will ride it til the wheels fall off

 

[SirMike1983]

The plastic collet uncrews from the barrel on that pump for repair. The handle and shaft are a unit.

 

[machtig]

Understand, thank you sir.

 

[messenger390]

Congrats on the Sally Ann score! Looks pretty minty . .. .

I've never tried to take apart one of those 'torpedo' pumps. Just get the little hose out, attach to pump, then spin it around on the valve until it;s attached. A little tricky to use, careful not to damage the valve with too much wiggling. Goes well with a saddle bag with wrench, tube and tyre irons.

I have a 1972 Raleigh 3 speed ladies . . . I liked riding it so much, I ordered up 590mm Sun CR18 rims and laced it up with new stainess steel spokes and brass spoke head washers and brass nipples. So far, so good and the brakes are a bit better too. I have worked on lots of 70's Raleigh 3 speeds and I don't recall any of them coming with original stainless spokes. Most seem to use zinc, which can get a bit brittle if they have a heavier rider or get lots of miles. Even so, the wheels have strong steel rims and lots of spokes so it's amazing how far that goes.

Nice Dynohub, by the way. I had fun wiring mine up, it was kind of elegant simplicity in terms of wiring. But I still put a battery powered red blinky LED light at the back when riding at night. I could never get going fast enough to make the lights super bright.

I think Sheldon Brown had some thoughts on these beasts: https://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh.html

Looks like a fun project! Enjoy!

 

[machtig]

She’s pretty clean! Ive read almost every article on Sheldon’s site . Particularly the one on servicing the Dynohub! I ordered some of the led bulbs for the original lamps—I don't foresee us riding much at night but we want everything to work. I think we’ll probably roll with the original rims and spokes for a bit and see how it goes. I ordered a new leather plunger seal for the pump so I’m hopeful it will work but i do think the hose is missing parts that open the schraeder valve? The threads on the pump body the hose screws into also need work so this thing may just end up a decorative pump but I’ll give it my best shot.

 

[SirMike1983]

The seals can be revived with something like Trident silicone grease and perhaps a new seal (sometimes the grease and a little heat to reshape the original will work). The threads on the hose help lock it to the valve while you work the pump with both hands. The pump should push air because in a roadside emergency situation, it actually does help you enough to get home after you patch the tube. But other than that, it's no match for a good floor-pusher type pump when you're doing real work.

By the 1970s, Raleigh's Sports and Superbe were generally equipped with the grey-coated steel spokes in the US market. Yours look to be this type. Raleigh did use a stainless type steel they called "rustless metal", "rustless steel", or "rustless wire" variously. But this was in earlier years from the 1930s through the late 1950s primarily.

Sheldon's instructions about the dynohub are good. Do not separate the magnet from the armature unless you have a magnet keeper.

The 1970s Raleighs are somewhat underappreciated because the collectors tend to prefer the pre-1960 (pre-merger) stuff. But the 1970s bikes are still good bikes once you service them and get them set up. The rear reflector on the bike is upside down.

 

[Jesper]

Nice ride! I have always restored the leather plunger seal with motor oil unless it was cracked/damaged. Soak it for an hour or so. Flare the seal a bit before putting it back in the tube (you should need to slightly squeeze it to reinsert), block the end hole with finger and give it a few hard quick pumps. The pressue will help shape and seal it internally. I do not use neatsfoot oil since I have had issues with it corroding certain metals with other usage applications. Certainly clean the barrel to remove any grit/debris before reassembly.

 

[FICHT 150]

Great bike! That one has the best and latest version of the Raleigh rebuildable pedals on it, with reflectors. You can tear them down and service the bearings and put them right back on.
Did you get the key for the locking fork? If you didn’t, there is a guy in Australia that will take the number from the lock, set you up with a new key, and ship it to you for about $20. He is on the ‘bay.
The Superbe and the Sprite bikes of that vintage usually had a more expensive forged stem installed. I have seen many Superbe bikes with the expensive stem, and a few without it. Your bike has the regular Raleigh stem installed. I have no idea why some do/some don’t. I have never seen a Sprite without the expensive stem.
The spokes look exactly like every other Raleigh wheel I have ever had. Oddly enough, you can actually use the original spokes if you put Sun CR-18 alloy rims on, I’ve done it.
Brooks sells a product called “Proofhide” for the leather saddle, you could try some on the seat. I haven’t had very good luck bringing the really old and dry seats back.
Good luck with the new to you bike.

Ted

 

[machtig]

I have one pedal apart now. Will post photos later. It has cleaned up beautifully! Looks almost brand new. It did not come with the key. I will have to hit up the gentleman on eBay. We’ll run the stock wheels and spoke for now. The rims are almost flawless. I also have some Proofhide coming, we’ll see jow it goes. One thing I think the wife will need is taller handlebar stem and seat post; she’s nearly 6 ft tall with long legs. If anyone has recommendations I’m all ears.

 

[FICHT 150]

Those were the best pedals. They ran them for a year or so, and then went with disposable junk. Which, still last a long time if you clean and lube them now and again.

I’ve got Nitto stem and bars on my 1977 Sprite, along with a generic alloy seat post. Might be an option. This Sprite has 27” alloy wheels, the bike originally had a derailleur but it has an AW that I converted to S5 on it, now.

Ted