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39-41 Sears Collegiate: My First Project!

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Well, I spent some time learning to lace up the rear wheel last night and was happy to figure out that I was able to do it correctly! The only problem(s) is that even though the spokes I got are the exact same length as the originals, they seemed to be too long. I was able to tighten them down properly, but the threaded ends now protrude up into where the tube goes. Is this okay? I don't imagine the original rubber nipple band will be able to adequately cover those protrusions.

Lastly, the rim was a little bent when I got the bike. I'm not using a truing stand, but I want to ask you all if this looks true enough?? Just for a daily rider?

Thanks guys and gals...

 
Ballbearing grease is fine for these old bikes, as for trueing a wheel. I'm a little obsessive so I try to get side to side moment as close as I can to the width of a nickel.
 
Well it sure spins nice. I would like to see it a little less wobbly if it were mine but.....
 
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Well, I spent some time learning to lace up the rear wheel last night and was happy to figure out that I was able to do it correctly! The only problem(s) is that even though the spokes I got are the exact same length as the originals, they seemed to be too long. I was able to tighten them down properly, but the threaded ends now protrude up into where the tube goes. Is this okay? I don't imagine the original rubber nipple band will be able to adequately cover those protrusions.

Lastly, the rim was a little bent when I got the bike. I'm not using a truing stand, but I want to ask you all if this looks true enough?? Just for a daily rider?

Thanks guys and gals...

Did you notice if the spoke pattern was 3 cross or 4 cross? If the spokes are too long It could be a 4 cross. Make sure you get the rear wheel dished properly.
 
Hello everyone,

Sorry for the delay but I have been busy with work. The last couple weeks, however, I have been spending some time on the bike. There were some hiccups like a toasted front bearing and a musselman hub sleeve literally snapping in my hands, but thanks to @Gordon , I was able to get the necessary replacements. The most time consuming part of this venture was the front wheel. Since I wanted to use the original maroon primed spokes and brass nipples, it was a long and arduous process of inspecting the 72 og spokes to find 36 with the least corrosion, strip, polish, and clear coat them to match them to the new stainless steel spokes on the rear rim and help reduce further corrosion. Truing the rims proved tricky as well without a truing stand, but as my first crack at it I think I did pretty good. There is slight wobble in the wheels but I heard from a few that these wartime bikes never get truly true. I was able to assemble the pieces, throw the pedal pegs on it, and give it a quick ride outside. As far as I know the bike rides well. It coasts smooth and has a good braking action. I am definitely loving the look so far. All I have left to do is recover the saddle, rebuild the pedals, and install the chainguard. I have some other slight aesthetic customizations I plan on doing like a vintage style bike crate and magna flashlight holder. I'm still looking for a period correct rack and a dropstand and/or kickstand. Cheers!

IMG_1017[1].JPG
 
I have some additional questions...

What's a good padding material for the saddle? And what thickness of leather is correct?

Would this bike originally had a dropstand, kickstand, or either? Also, is there a way of having a dropstand without a rear fender?

And what would the correct chainguard look like?
 
I have some additional questions...

What's a good padding material for the saddle? And what thickness of leather is correct?

Would this bike originally had a dropstand, kickstand, or either? Also, is there a way of having a dropstand without a rear fender?

And what would the correct chainguard look like?

It would have had a dropstand without ears due to the fact that the rear dropouts have the stops. I know someone on here had a dropstand without the rear fender, just can't remember which member it was.
Sean
 
I have some additional questions...

What's a good padding material for the saddle? And what thickness of leather is correct?

Would this bike originally had a dropstand, kickstand, or either? Also, is there a way of having a dropstand without a rear fender?

And what would the correct chainguard look like?
Caber Stradalite can tell you about the correct padding, sanding with 80 grit and Veg leather. Or he will cover a seat for you at a fair price. JimRoy
PS: Your bike is equipped for a rear drop stand. Or a side kick stand will work as well.
 
You could install a rear half fender (nice look), and install the spring clip. You would pull the drop stand up to 12 o’clock position and secure it to the fender spring clip. It’s a nice look. JimRoy
 
Took the bike out for its maiden voyage yesterday. A 5 mile trek along the Poudre River here in Fort Collins. Happy to report that the bike didn't disintegrate underneath me. It rode smooth, though I think my tire pressure was a little low, making it a little harder to pedal on the pavement. I love the look of this bike, and all I have left is to get a period rack and install a correct kickstand/seatpost bolt. Thanks to everyone for there help, this bike was a great learning project...

IMG_1077[1].JPG
 
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