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Discussion in 'Classic Balloon Tire Bicycles 1933-1965' started by sarmis, Dec 10, 2017.
Here is what I'm talking about. V/r Shawn
Look at my wunnerful red highlights ,
If you cut the girls forks at that height as Shawn marked, the diameter of the taper is SMALLER than the diameter where the fork meets the steer tube casting.
You will have a gap between the fork and steer tube casting.
Where the the fork meets the steer tube casting, that is the only part of the fork that is the correct size to fit the steer tube casting, you cut above that, it’s going to be smaller no matter what as it tapers.
Not true, Sarmis.
The taller Double Duty forks had a consistent diameter section above the fork crown.
The standard boys fork started its taper right from the junction of the fork crown, so if you make the alteration the way Shawn's diagram shows, there's no difference in the diameter where the taper starts.
It's easier to see with a fork in hand.
I wouldn't pay that either. But if I found one for cheap I would happily flip it for $2k
Credit Mike Wolfe, American Pickers
Hmmmm, which is better, spring or non-spring? I guess I'm just hung up on functionality over aesthetics. My girlfriend complains about that all the time .