39 Canti with DD


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Freqman1

Riding a '37 Dayton Super Streamline
Jul 14, 2009
15,049
14,774
Evans, GA
#41
My take is....
If you cut at the bottom to keep the correct height and to keep the short straight piece at the top, the taper of the girls bike is longer and you will end up with a too small diameter to work with at the cast yoke.

I think this is why a shortened girls DD fork is cut at the top thereby losing the short straight piece.
Here is what I'm talking about. V/r Shawn
dd1.JPG
 

sarmis

Finally riding a big boys bike
Aug 20, 2016
142
247
52
redondo beach
#42
Here is what I'm talking about. V/r Shawn
View attachment 724170
Look at my wunnerful red highlights ,
If you cut the girls forks at that height as Shawn marked, the diameter of the taper is SMALLER than the diameter where the fork meets the steer tube casting.

You will have a gap between the fork and steer tube casting.

Where the the fork meets the steer tube casting, that is the only part of the fork that is the correct size to fit the steer tube casting, you cut above that, it’s going to be smaller no matter what as it tapers.

98f15f83870475ac748e58737e3a581d.jpg
 

cyclingday

Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
Feb 24, 2008
4,988
12,415
Compton, United States
#43
Not true, Sarmis.
The taller Double Duty forks had a consistent diameter section above the fork crown.
The standard boys fork started its taper right from the junction of the fork crown, so if you make the alteration the way Shawn's diagram shows, there's no difference in the diameter where the taper starts.
It's easier to see with a fork in hand.
 
Likes: frankster41

ricobike

Finally riding a big boys bike
Apr 8, 2014
356
438
Evanston, United States
#46
Hmmmm, which is better, spring or non-spring? I guess I'm just hung up on functionality over aesthetics. My girlfriend complains about that all the time :).
 

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