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65 years old

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a ps on Obenauf's LP. At least once on your new leather saddle, coat it sloppy with Obenauf's, and take a hair drier to it - it will soak in deep. After it cools, maybe the next day, buff it out slick.
You may be able then to go a long time without using it again - just take a chamois to shine up the saddle after you ride.
 
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Hi friend, Obenauf's LP is still my choice. If they're Really Dry, probably ok to begin with Proofide or Obenauf leather oil to get more of that oil content.
After it changes color from the oil it takes up, switch to Obenauf's LP.
Also, any time you apply anything, buff it out slick, even if you wait to the next day to do it.
Don't apply anything too frequently - wait at least a week, and decrease frequency with life - never apply anything to a wet (with water or sweat) saddle.
Found this macro of my 15,000+ mi Brooks - the veins in the leather are alive, or at least well-preserved.
WwKlopI.jpg

I have major mildew allergies, and can smell mildew at a distance, am wary of the whole biofilm-affected corrosion that can destroy expensive antique fishing reels. But I have actually recovered some mildly mildewed leather items with Obenauf's.
Beeswax is a natural antibiotic. (Honey is the only food on the planet that doesn't rot)

Also, with your saddles in good shape, Obenauf's to the top with the blow drier may be just the ticket.
I also use Obenauf's on the bottom of a new saddle, but as @dnc1 mentioned, the bottom of the saddle is also the best place to use the higher oil-content treatments.

I have a Brooks Swallow Select stashed in reserve - found it for $99 close-out, and grabbed it at that price. It's there when I need it, and I give it a light coat of Obenauf's inside and out about once/yr
 
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My apologies to TR6SC for going off topic. I hope the info that my friend has provided will help
others as well.
Bulldog, thank you.
Jake and Jake, I can't seem to understand what the topic is other than people having good times sharing info. Everything I've heard so far makes me and my friend (the tin donor) pleased. He's an old man and is excited to see his childhood relic the cause of great discussion. Thank you all for expanding the topic.
 
My buddy the machinist (who built the telescopes at McDonald Observatory) had a 100-pt Tiger he restored (that he parked in his breakfast nook) - even the Smith's gauges worked.
Fenders and tank were the original olive with black pin-striping - he re-painted the whole bike with Krylon, but his skill was over the top, and of course rubbed it. He used to take the engine cases into the machine shop, rouge them on a buffing wheel, then spray them with clear Krylon.
He found it low mileage, original condition in the storage shed of a sailing buddy, and went to work making it better than new.
He also had a 500cc 1C BSA 4-stroke thumper that in his youth he raced hill-climb and motocross.

As a machinist, it was a mistake to give him a detailed drawing, because that's what he would build. But if you gave him a sketch and hand-waving, he would build you something better than you asked for.
 
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Have you tried the old Proofide? My latest tin seems weak compared to my last one. I think they changed their formula.
 
leather bar wrap - cheap wrap came from Trip Machine on Etsy, and 15 days from India (I think it's somebody's grandfather)
But these got the Obenauf's + hair drier treatment.
E0XMVWT.jpg

Added 2 hand positions to the bar with the mod, and don't know how I lived without it before.
rgmBJU1.jpg

unbelievable difference in a headwind - upright bar went from being my worst headwind bike to my best
adK6urQ.jpg
 
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