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A Sears Austrian built 10 speed

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thanks very much for the update

wonderful to see it looking so clean ;)

look forward to following the assembly...


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Thanks. I am not finished with the cleaning - the ESGE kick stand plate is difficult to clean - I'll be working on that this PM. Still thinking about the spindle lenght for a new bottom bracket, unless I re-use the old one.
 
Ronson Lighter Fluid (the type that you use to refill ancient Zippo type cigarette lighters) works great at removing adhesive residue. As a golfer who has re-gripped my own clubs since 1970, I have used Lighter Fluid as that was the industry standard then and that is what the club repair guy used back then at the Country Club where I worked the Driving Range picking up balls when I was in college. You'd cut off the old grip with a sharp carpet knife, or boxcutter type razor knife, but you're left with a lot of grip tape/glue gunk residue and you wanted to get the golf shaft back to clean chrome before applying new grip tape, etc to install the new grip. Lighter fluid removes all that gunk a lot quicker than scraping it with a sharp boxcutter. Lighter fluid was used to WET and Activate the NEW GRIPTAPE when installing the new golf grip...........essentially double sided masking tape that you'd wrap candy cane style, then peel back the protective paper backing to expose the other glue side..........squirt lighter fluid all over the grip-tape to wet it good.......stick your finger over the tiny hole in the butt end of the grip.....squirt some lighter fluid inside the grip....swish it around to get the inside of the grip wetted....and then quickly within the next 90 seconds slide the grip onto the shaft while the wetted grip tape allows that..............the lighter fluid evaporates/dries and then the golf grip is Not Moveable......so you have about 2 minutes maximum to line up the grip once it is slid onto the shaft, before it gets harder to move around. YOU CAN ALSO USE THE GOLF GRIPTAPE METHOD TO SECURE HANDLEBAR GRIPS IF YOU WANT, but most of the basic old-style typical inexpensive hairsprays will likely adequately secure most handlebar grips. Fifty years ago, relatively speaking the prices of new replacement golf grips(the grips themselves..) was much more costly than today, so we would syringe good serviceable grips off and re-use them. This involved loading a syringe with lighter fluid and then needle inject it about almost at the middle of the grip, and then push the rubber around with both thumbs as the lighter fluid unglued it, and then off the club. This worked really well on relatively recent grips that were in good condition. It was somewhat dangerous as you were using a syringe and needle....and there was always the worry that you'd accidently poke yourself. You also used a significant amount of lighter fluid when injecting golf grips for saving them for re-use. I wouldn't do that today since the cost of a golf grip is not much compared to fifty years ago.
If you're going this route, save yourself some money and buy a big can of NAPTHA,. That's what Ronson lighter fluid is(has something added to improve odor) The can of naptha will say "VM&P NAPTHA" (varnish maker's and painter's)
 
Just an update. I'm going with 700C wheels because I have tires for them,original bottom bracket, seatpost, cranks, and derailleurs. I had to swap the front brake caliper for a long reach (still Weinmann - Raleigh branded).
Added a riser stem, VO porteur bars, VO city levers, MKS Sllvan Touring pedals, and old Suntour barcon shifters.
So far:
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very nice; thanks for this update! 😃

the barcons look like they would be more comfortable to operate it the bar's trail were parallel to the frame


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