Actually Riding Your Classic or Antique Bike

[Ricker]

Forgot to mention another issue, proper tire inflation. I see some folks riding on fairly low inflated tires. Low inflation means more drag and resistance making pedaling a tad harder.

Not any more The new tire tech allows for lower pressure with lower rolling resistance- best of both worlds!

 

[Ernbar]

Not any more The new tire tech allows for lower pressure with lower rolling resistance- best of both worlds!

You mean on new bikes and not the old classics?

 

[Ricker]

You mean on new bikes and not the old classics?

Yes, new bike tire tech-

 

[Coalfield]

On paved surfaces, lower the tire pressure = increase the rolling resistance. Period, no exceptions.

 

[Coalfield]

I ride many vintage lightweights with friction shifting, several newer bikes with integrated brake/shift levers and an e-road bike.

Funny how on a 'bearing overhauled',1970s, 23 pound bike on flatish terrain my speed is about the same as a 19 pound modern bike. Throw in hills and the older gearing limitations become obvious. Throw in long descents with some steep downhill sections and disc brakes are clearly superior. Take me to the mountains for long climbs and the ebike is my choice.

Newer saddles and cycling shorts are greatly improved, imho. YMMV

It is a big cycling Universe - experience as much as you can.

 

[Schwinn Guy]

I have usually switched the gearing on my single speeds and three speeds to 46x20 or 46x22. I find it makes the bike much more usable in hilly terrain. You usually add a few links to the chain to get the wheel positioned correctly in the dropouts and have proper fender clearance. Keep in mind the coaster brake will require more pedal travel to activate, but not much. Another often overlooked point is the correct seat height.

• There are various formulas for determining bike saddle height, but you needn’t be a mathematician to achieve the correct height. Your knees should be slightly bent at the bottom of the pedal stroke, and when pedaling, your hips should not rock on the saddle (when viewed from behind).

Most vintage bikes do not have a long enough seat post to get the proper leg extension for more efficient pedaling. Aftermarket post are available to raise the seat more so that when you pedal is at the lowest point of the rotation you have a slight bend in the knee. This also requires you to dismount when stopping otherwise you will be on tip toe is still in the saddle. A padded seat cushion can also add a bit of height. If the saddle is too low you will strain your knees.

 

[Freqman1]

Honestly I'm not worried about the riding geometry on a classic or antique bike I'm just having fun riding.

 

[cyclingday]

Yep!
These things are called cruisers for a reason.
They were never designed with performance riding in mind.
That’s why the adverts never mentioned your VO2 max or your drag coefficient.
They always pointed out that you’d be the envy of Buck Roger’s with your new Junior Rocket Ray headlamp, and your Streamlined Wing Ding on board.
With these bikes, it’s All About the Bike!
I know your handlebar is more comfortable pointing up to the heavens, and your saddle jacked up to hell and gone, but it does nothing for the aesthetic beauty of your bicycle.
So get that saddle to a reasonable height, and your bars pointed back where they belong, and get back to being the envy of Buck Roger’s, while you’re having that double bacon cheeseburger with your buddies at the bar and grill.

 

[markivpedalpusher]

Well said Marty

 

[SKPC]