Advice On Building A Touring Bike

[bikiba]

hi guys

I have been planning a 350 mile ride and wanted to build a custom bike for the trip. The roads will go from pavement to hard dirt to POSSIBLY some loose dirt. But it will all be small towns or villages.

So I have been thinking about buying a new bike like a surly or something else, but I was thinking maybe using an old frame, with newer components.

I was thinking:
- ill need about 10 speeds
- 2.25 - 3" tires
- the ability to put on panniers on the back, maybe a roll on the front. I am not planning on taking any more than some tools, clothes which I will wash every couple of days
- ill be staying in a hotel each night along the way. about 50miles a day
- id like the frame to be strong, comfy ... not break on me!
- able to add those small plastic fender shields
- able to dodge monkeys, cows, street dogs

so the advice I need is:
is there a classic touring frame that would be able to fit newer components? do you think I shld just go with a new frame given I will be in another country?

I have a 1940s new world frame that I was eyeballing as a potential candidate. I have a 70s Raleigh and the 50s dutch bike I never sold, but had posted on the cabe months back for sale.

any advice would be a help and appreciated

-Steve

 

[Iverider]

I have a Surly Disc Trucker that I use for bike camping/touring that I like quite a bit. It'll fit a 700x42 tire which is about all you would need even if you're riding offroad. I've ridden swampy single track with my bike on 700x40 tires with great results. Picking a bike that fits you well is the most important part of longer distance riding. Of the three bikes you listed, are any of them the perfect fit for your leg length and torso length (seat tube and top tube)?

 

[bikiba]

I have a Surly Disc Trucker that I use for bike camping/touring that I like quite a bit. It'll fit a 700x42 tire which is about all you would need even if you're riding offroad. I've ridden swampy single track with my bike on 700x40 tires with great results. Picking a bike that fits you well is the most important part of longer distance riding. Of the three bikes you listed, are any of them the perfect fit for your leg length and torso length (seat tube and top tube)?

thanks for the reply.

They are all ok, but I have never put in 50miles at a stretch on them and they are all single gear coaster brakes. This spring summer I am thinking of outfitting them with some larger tires and taking them for a stretch to see how the frame holds up. I don't expect any stump jumping. I just need a comfy ride given the overall distance.

 

[Iverider]

My current setup uses a 2x11 speed drivetrain although I'm going to shift to 3x9 just because it's cheap and easy. If you're carrying more than 20 pounds and will encounter any hills, having multiple speeds will be nice. I rode a single speed coaster brake bike around 160 miles over a three day period with 40 pounds of gear. I was in rolling hills and a good amount of flat land, but the last day was through some tougher hills and that was murder.

 

[bikiba]

My current setup uses a 2x11 speed drivetrain although I'm going to shift to 3x9 just because it's cheap and easy. If you're carrying more than 20 pounds and will encounter any hills, having multiple speeds will be nice. I rode a single speed coaster brake bike around 160 miles over a three day period with 40 pounds of gear. I was in rolling hills and a good amount of flat land, but the last day was through some tougher hills and that was murder.

wow! 160 miles on a coaster brake bike... was it an oldie? You have given me some confidence that my trip ahead is possible.

I think max I will have 50lbs plus me at 200lbs. I was thinking of a 1x9 honestly. I think I will only need about 4 gears and wanted to keep everything simple as possible

 

[Iverider]

It was on my 1915 Iver Johnson Truss Bridge Roadster

Culberston Mansion by VW Sightings, on Flickr

Rest of the trip was sort of documented here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/32224799@N02/albums/72157634486674563

 

[bikiba]

It was on my 1915 Iver Johnson Truss Bridge Roadster

Rest of the trip was sort of documented here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/32224799@N02/albums/72157634486674563

trust the truss!

how big were the tires?

 

[Iverider]

Those are the same WTB Pathway 700-38c tires I have on my Disc Trucker now. On the sidewall it also says 700x40 which is closer to what they really are I believe.

1915 Iver Johnson Truss Bridge Roadster by VW Sightings, on Flickr

 

[fattyre]

New Bike! Heres my thoughts-


Mixing and matching new parts on an old frame might not be that easy. Especially durable modern derailleur parts and shifters. Headsets and cranksets are also way better and easier to service compared to old stuff. Finding parts that properly retro fit to an old frame could be real time consuming. It's do-able, but there is going to be some trail and error. 350 miles is not a good time to be monkeying around when you want to be enjoying the trip.

Surly makes some really nice versatile bikes of good quality at an entry price level. I know people who have ridden across Iowa (Trans-Iowa race) on a stock Cross Checks and had no issues. Although with a new bike, you'll have to spend more money. I'm sure there are other brands that offer similar bikes, but Surly defiantly leads the pack in affordable and versatile bikes.

Two more benefits to new bikes- More modern frame geometry. A new frame compared to the New world and the dutch bike will be way different. Find a shop and test ride a few. I think you'll notice and immediate difference. Also weight. Night and day difference. New bikes are light and extremely durable. Alloy wheels, alloy bars, stem, post, hubs , and on and on. Especially when you are looking at bikes that are 1500 dollars and up. There is a reason people like lightweight bikes. They are way easier and more fun to ride.


Being comfortable on your bike is also really really important as previously mentioned. Don't skip on having the right size bike. Day after day, a poor fitting bike will wear you down faster than you can put miles on. The most important thing above all is to be comfortable. If your bike makes you hurt, than your probably not going to want to use it.

I also agree that no more than a 40c tire is necessary. Anything after that is just unnecessary friction for the terrain you described.. Modern tires with nice sidewalls and good rubber compounds are no comparison to old tires of even 15 years ago.

 

[bikiba]

New Bike! Heres my thoughts-


Mixing and matching new parts on an old frame might not be that easy. Especially durable modern derailleur parts and shifters. Headsets and cranksets are also way better and easier to service compared to old stuff. Finding parts that properly retro fit to an old frame could be real time consuming. It's do-able, but there is going to be some trail and error. 350 miles is not a good time to be monkeying around when you want to be enjoying the trip.

Surly makes some really nice versatile bikes of good quality at an entry price level. I know people who have ridden across Iowa (Trans-Iowa race) on a stock Cross Checks and had no issues. Although with a new bike, you'll have to spend more money. I'm sure there are other brands that offer similar bikes, but Surly defiantly leads the pack in affordable and versatile bikes.

Two more benefits to new bikes- More modern frame geometry. A new frame compared to the New world and the dutch bike will be way different. Find a shop and test ride a few. I think you'll notice and immediate difference. Also weight. Night and day difference. New bikes are light and extremely durable. Alloy wheels, alloy bars, stem, post, hubs , and on and on. Especially when you are looking at bikes that are 1500 dollars and up. There is a reason people like lightweight bikes. They are way easier and more fun to ride.

Being comfortable on your bike is also really really important as previously mentioned. Don't skip on having the right size bike. Day after day, a poor fitting bike will wear you down faster than you can put miles on. The most important thing above all is to be comfortable. If your bike makes you hurt, than your probably not going to want to use it.

I also agree that no more than a 40c tire is necessary. Anything after that is just unnecessary friction for the terrain you described.. Modern tires with nice sidewalls and good rubber compounds are no comparison to old tires of even 15 years ago.

Thanks for the reply. I agree with everything you are suggesting. My issue was that I didn't want to buy ANOTHER bike

Key for me is comfort as you mention and I am going to make my way to the shop this weekend.