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Advice sought - Pierce Racer

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I would put a coat of Waxoyl, new ball bearings everywhere and a set of Robert Dean tires on it, then ride it as is.
Look for the proper bits at your leisure if you want to set it up like factory.
 
Don't let anyone get you in a hurry to get rid of any parts. Not the broken fork or the incorrect crank set. That bike was a special order. And it was built 30 miles from Toronto Ca. which is heavily influenced by the French. Most special order track bikes of the day were out fitted with BSA parts but if ordered for Canadian racing it every well might have been finished off with French parts. More research is needed, but you can change the fork wheels and seat and ride it as you do the research.
 
Thank you for all of the wonderful insight. I have been researching Pierce bicycles of this era (and many others) and I have become fascinated. Admittedly, I was none-too-aware if the fever-pitch popularity of six day races, road racing, pace-setting, and all the other cool races from that era. As an avid cyclist myself, to see the conditions of the tracks and roads of that time and the sheer number of spectators and racers who all lined up to breathe life into this fledgling sport; and the crashes! Oh my god! It’s been a very enjoyable history lesson. Can’t say that I am anywhere as knowledgeable as any of you, but I know more than I did before I picked up this bike.
What surprises me is how light this bicycle it. I first noticed it when I pulled it off the wall in the garage it was stored in. Now that I have it down to the frame only (the seatpost is still in place, waiting on the magic of PB Blaster), it weighs out at 7.25 lbs. that’s lighter than any of my old 70s road bikes for sure!

I wanted to include some additional pictures from the tear down of the bike, and also pose more questions so I can preserve the history of this bike and not screw it up. Additionally, I am happy to take more photos for anyone interested.

Questions:
I have seen that Pierce had threaded bottom brackets in later years. The bottom bracket (see photos) was threaded to accept the bearing cups and spindle from a Bianchi (marked). Is it possible that the bottom bracket has been re-tapped to accept this or would it be axle to accept both? I am concerned about standard to mm thread pitch.

The brazing where the seat tube and down tube look different where they attach to the BB from others I have seen. Is this reinforced brazing, or signs that the BB has been replaced?

When cleaning, what is the preferred method of rust removal from the frame?

Does anyone know anything about the pull-through hubs on the rims? They are matched to each other, but the rims are different.

What is the little bracket/hanger for on the stem?

Lastly, is it possible this bike was set up for road racing? I only ask this because of the frame reinforcements and the frame-mounted pump brackets. Would it still use a fixed hub?

Thank you all for the expertise and knowledge.

I am including pictures of the bike during disassembly and of other Pierce Racers I have found online.
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Thank you for all of the wonderful insight. I have been researching Pierce bicycles of this era (and many others) and I have become fascinated. Admittedly, I was none-too-aware if the fever-pitch popularity of six day races, road racing, pace-setting, and all the other cool races from that era. As an avid cyclist myself, to see the conditions of the tracks and roads of that time and the sheer number of spectators and racers who all lined up to breathe life into this fledgling sport; and the crashes! Oh my god! It’s been a very enjoyable history lesson. Can’t say that I am anywhere as knowledgeable as any of you, but I know more than I did before I picked up this bike.
What surprises me is how light this bicycle it. I first noticed it when I pulled it off the wall in the garage it was stored in. Now that I have it down to the frame only (the seatpost is still in place, waiting on the magic of PB Blaster), it weighs out at 7.25 lbs. that’s lighter than any of my old 70s road bikes for sure!

I wanted to include some additional pictures from the tear down of the bike, and also pose more questions so I can preserve the history of this bike and not screw it up. Additionally, I am happy to take more photos for anyone interested.

Questions:
I have seen that Pierce had threaded bottom brackets in later years. The bottom bracket (see photos) was threaded to accept the bearing cups and spindle from a Bianchi (marked). Is it possible that the bottom bracket has been re-tapped to accept this or would it be axle to accept both? I am concerned about standard to mm thread pitch.

The brazing where the seat tube and down tube look different where they attach to the BB from others I have seen. Is this reinforced brazing, or signs that the BB has been replaced?

When cleaning, what is the preferred method of rust removal from the frame?

Does anyone know anything about the pull-through hubs on the rims? They are matched to each other, but the rims are different.

What is the little bracket/hanger for on the stem?

Lastly, is it possible this bike was set up for road racing? I only ask this because of the frame reinforcements and the frame-mounted pump brackets. Would it still use a fixed hub?

Thank you all for the expertise and knowledge.

I am including pictures of the bike during disassembly and of other Pierce Racers I have found online. Austin

"
Questions:
I have seen that Pierce had threaded bottom brackets in later years. The bottom bracket (see photos) was threaded to accept the bearing cups and spindle from a Bianchi (marked). Is it possible that the bottom bracket has been re-tapped to accept this or would it be axle to accept both? I am concerned about standard to mm thread pitch.

I do not believe that your hanger bracket is threaded, it looks as if you have threaded bearing cups. Your cups are similar to the ones on my BR model Amateur Sprint Racer, except that mine are not threaded. One thing I have found about Pierce machines is that they did not typically use conventional sizes on things, for example, my steer tube is 1-1/16" as opposed to the standard 1" steer tubes on most other bicycles.

The brazing where the seat tube and down tube look different where they attach to the BB from others I have seen. Is this reinforced brazing, or signs that the BB has been replaced?
Your brazing looks like it is all factory, as #New Mexico Brant noted, your Carmine red paint all looks like factory paint.
When cleaning, what is the preferred method of rust removal from the frame?
There are many methods out there, OA is one a lot of people use, however as your bike is Carmine red, it isn't recommended as it doesn't do well with reds.
On my Pierce, I used a polishing compound, very lightly abrasive to address the small spots of rust, then many coats of carnauba wax on top of it to protect the paint. (in my opinion my paint looks really good).


Does anyone know anything about the pull-through hubs on the rims? They are matched to each other, but the rims are different.
the bike could have had an accident over the years and a rim replaced, using the original hubs.. just a wild a** guess.

What is the little bracket/hanger for on the stem?
could have been for a light, or to hang a water bottle from, that is another guess.

Lastly, is it possible this bike was set up for road racing? I only ask this because of the frame reinforcements and the frame-mounted pump brackets. Would it still use a fixed hub?

It very well could have been set up for road racing, and the rear hub options were either 'fixed' or 'coaster'. The coaster brake set up was typically about $5 more.

All in all, you have a really nice bicycle, if you chose to clean it up and polish it, it should pop nicely.
This is what mine looks like when it is freshly polished.


in it's show form.
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in it's everyday rider form, and I try to ride it everyday.


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Also, they are surprisingly light. My frame and fork, weighs 6.5 pounds. The bike set up in everyday riding condition is just under 28 pounds.
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