When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Applying decals to new paint

-

atencioee

Finally riding a big boys bike
I'm looking for some guidance on applying decals. I just painted one of my bikes and it's about ready for decals. One guy told me before he applies the decal to a specific area on the frame or chainguard, he sprays a real small touch of clear coat on the area and allows it to dry 24 hrs before applying the decal. Has anyone tried that? Would you recommend that I do that with a bike that has just been painted?
 
The clear coat technique you described has me scratching my head. I know that if you put decals on a Matt or flat finish, clearing before application will prevent decal slivering or lifting. My humble advise is to let the paint fully dry. Dip the decal in warm water for only a few seconds and let sit until it easily slides off the backing. Once positioned correctly, gently remove excess water and let dry for 24 hours. Opps forgot to mention that you will probably have to work out some air bubbles when first setting the decal. This can be done by gently using a paper towel or in some cases a credit card. Remember be gentle. Good luck!
 
Clean hands extra good to prevent oil from fingers to permanently leave your finger prints on the under side of the decal...been there...sucks
 
I’ve been a model builder for over 50 years and proper decal application is a very important step in scale modeling. In order not to have any slivering under the clear carrier film the paint has to be VERY glossy. If the decal is applied over a less than a glossy finish (flat, semi gloss) chances are that slivering will appear . I always polish flat finishes to smooth out the surface then apply a clear gloss coat as decal application prep. If your paint finish is glossy then just apply the decal and blot out any air bubbles carefully working from the center of the decal out to the edges. I like using a damp paper towel to smooth out and dry the area. Let it dry overnight and it should look painted on.

Solvaset was mentioned and is the best decal setting solution I have ever used. The stuff will melt the decal film right into every crevice making it looked painted on. This is another tool I have been using in model building since the early 1970s. I don’t think Solvaset will be necessary for your particular application since I doubt you will have to apply the decals over complex surface areas on your bicycle.
Like SJBiker suggested, make sure you wash your hands before handling the decals to avoid leaving fingerprints from skin oils.
 
Last edited:
Dont spray your paint job.Spray a few coats of clear enamel on the decals ESPECIALLY if they are old,to prevent them from crackling up.Trim the decal as close as you can to the edges and apply
 
Has anyone tried that? Would you recommend that
This is a new thread, in addition to the old thread, that was expanded upon, about the same time.
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/tips-on-applying-waterslide-decals.123386/#post-1049819
I recall that some decal instructions suggest that paint be allowed to fully cure, and referred to weeks rather than hours or days.
Why is that? We know how newly painted items smell like paint, that may be because they are still giving off fumes of a continuing chemical reaction, perhaps underneath the top film (amine layer?) of the paint; this out-gassing might cause bubbles to form?
Maybe that other guy was clear-coating just to eliminate a uneven finish, so that the decal would lay flat.
 
Last edited:
This is a new thread, in addition to the old thread, that was expanded upon, about the same time.
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/tips-on-applying-waterslide-decals.123386/#post-1049819
I recall that some decal instructions suggest that paint be allowed to fully cure, and referred to weeks rather than hours or days.
Why is that? We know how newly painted items smell like paint, that may be because they are still giving off fumes of a continuing chemical reaction, perhaps underneath the top film (amine layer?) of the paint; this out-gassing might cause bubbles to form?
Maybe that other guy was clear-coating just to eliminate a uneven finish, so that the decal would lay flat.

Correctamundo
 
Back
Top