Been waiting for you to chime in here.I'd need to see a pic of what you're trying to do to give you an accurate answer but... I've been making my living as a custom woodworker for 22 years and I'd say titebond 2 or 3 if its an easy fix, or west system epoxy if you need more open time to get it all clamped up. I'm not all impressed with gorilla glue and hide glue is not an option i would even consider.
Made a really bad uncolorable stain at the joint which sticks out like a sore thumb. I have glue plenty of wood rims together with hide glue and never had a problem with any. If you are going to paint the rims some color then it doesn't matter but if you are going to stain them and clear them hide glue is where it's at in my opinion. Rims are ment to have some give and flex to them ,unlike furniture, if you use something too strong you could get a failure in the joint or it might become very hard to true. Also when you spoke the wheel it naturally pulls the joint together so you don't need anything ridiculously strong.How did epoxy ruin the wheel? I am not promoting the use of epoxy, I think waterproof glue like Titebond is much easier to use and if the glue surfaces are cleaned of ALL old glue, holds just fine. As far as hide glue is concerned, that sounds old fashioned and unnecessary to me, its fine to be authentic, but unless the rim is then totally sealed from future moisture, hide glue will eventually let go again. My experience has been with rod restoration, and nobody uses hide glue any more Todd