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I got lucky. I got real lucky. I softened up on the axle nuts and started playing with the sprocket side adjusting cone and the lock nut on the other side. I was about an eighth of a turn too tight on the sprocket side and about the same on the other side. When I tightened up the axle nuts and gave it a spin, she sang like the choir at the Methodist Church.
 
The 2 speed hubs "growl " in low gear. I'm not sure if this is what you are referring to. It sounds like you cleaned , greased and assembled it correctly and everything is working properly. My guess is it is the normal sound of the 2 speed and I'm not really sure why that is, maybe @Schwinn Sales West can give some in site.
Two speed hubs do have a "gear noise". I guess the question is "is it a normal gear noise" or is what your hearing "abnormal". Just packing the hub with grease will not stop the gear noise in low gear. The quality of the gear machining is not as good on a Bendix hub (Auto, or Multi Speed) as on a Sturmey Archer planetary hub. And the Sturmey Hubs still have a low gear noise.

The planetary gears they use in a automotive automatic transmission have the gears cut at an angle (not straight) to reduce the operational gear noise/whine.

John
 
I rebuilt a 2 speed kickback and it worked perfectly on the bench but I lightly grease it and put it on the bike and it stuck.Tried again and same thing, I used a little oil and no more problems.
 
I was riding my Schwinn today and thinking about this thread. It's got a Bendix Aviation cable operated hub. Recently i disassembled it and cleaned everything surgically clean and put it back together with my favorite grease (I'm a BelRay man). The hub makes a purring noise when it's in underdrive. Always has. Always will.There's nothing wrong with it, the little planetary gearset is just a bit crude and the noise is inherent even when everything is perfect.
 
I’ve only dealt with the Stingray Blue Band Overdrive and have serviced 3 of them.

They are fairly simple. Worst part is cleaning all the old hard grease.


These hubs have a Happy spot once assembled and mounted in the bike.
That “spot” is found with the adjustment cone. Turn it in, or back it off, then lock it down.

Here are pages from the March / April ‘65 Schwinn Reporter that may assist the next person dealing with these 2 speed hubs.
My latest rebuild waiting for grease and reassemble.

I highlighted the recommended lubrication.


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7A7E5F83-A4A0-4CCF-A6CB-2D932CD7BEF9.jpeg


DECFCBE4-5B8D-4EE6-B5A2-F0EA6936CAAF.jpeg
 
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I’ve only dealt with the Stingray Blue Band Overdrive and have serviced 3 of them.

They are fairly simple. Worst part is cleaning all the old hard grease.


These hubs have a Happy spot once assembled and mounted in the bike.
That “spot” is found with the adjustment cone. Turn it in, or back it off, then lock it down.

Here are pages from the March / April ‘65 Schwinn Reporter that may assist the next person dealing with these 2 speed hubs.
My latest rebuild waiting for grease and reassemble.

I highlighted the recommended lubrication.


View attachment 1814374

View attachment 1814375


Sorry I messed up this reply.

When your discussing "low gear noise" in a Blue Band (overdrive), the low gear is actually locked up in direct drive. You have no planetary action, therefor no noise. So it's a apples and oranges comparison between the hubs.

On the Bendix Red Band, and the Yellow Band automatic's, and the cable operated Multi Speed, in low gear, you have the planetary gears working hard in low gear, and they do make noise.

John
 
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she sang like the choir at the Methodist Church.
Unfortunately, that was on the bench. This is my first 2 speed Bendix and I don't know her "sounds." I've had her apart and back 5 times. Even though there is still a noise that I'm not accustomed to, there is no sign of internal or external damage.

When describing the reassembly, the Schwinn Bicycle Service Manual says (step 21) "To tighten adjusting cone sun gear assembly on Bendix Yellow Band rear hub, simultaneously rotate sprocket in counter-clockwise direction and adjusting sun gear in clockwise direction until fully seated. In step 23, it says to back off the adjusting cone 1/3 turn and lock. After the "back-off," there is still very little "play." What is your (collective) preferred "back-off" or do you just play it by feel based on experience?

I fabricated a "cone locknut wrench" but I'd like to have a real one. If any one of you has a spare, please let me know.

I appreciate everyone's help!

Kit
 
Unfortunately, that was on the bench. This is my first 2 speed Bendix and I don't know her "sounds." I've had her apart and back 5 times. Even though there is still a noise that I'm not accustomed to, there is no sign of internal or external damage.

When describing the reassembly, the Schwinn Bicycle Service Manual says (step 21) "To tighten adjusting cone sun gear assembly on Bendix Yellow Band rear hub, simultaneously rotate sprocket in counter-clockwise direction and adjusting sun gear in clockwise direction until fully seated. In step 23, it says to back off the adjusting cone 1/3 turn and lock. After the "back-off," there is still very little "play." What is your (collective) preferred "back-off" or do you just play it by feel based on experience?

I fabricated a "cone locknut wrench" but I'd like to have a real one. If any one of you has a spare, please let me know.

I appreciate everyone's help!

Kit

The Automatic cone wrenches are just a 7/8" or 3/4" open ends, nothing special. What you need (special) is the recessed lock nut wrench. They are easy to fabricate if you have a buddy with a lathe. Just use a piece of hex stock, drill a 3/8" hole through it, and mill the flats. You can purchase them on eBay for inflated prices. They are a MUST HAVE tool for any Bendix Automatic work.

People get confused about bearing adjustment because there's two different types of "adjustable" bearings in the world. Roller, or you might call them Timken bearings require a preload. The preload is very small and on an automobile wheel it's so small it's only measured in "inch pounds", there's no free play, no loose feeling.

On ball bearings, like we see on most bicycles, they require a very small amount of free play. The free play is to accommodate the poor machining and low quality fit. For example, if you're working on a Pro Road bike with a Campanolo Record or Shimano Dura-Ace group, they are so precise you will notice almost no perceived bearing play on their ball bearings. On a cheaply machined Bendix Two Speed you need enough free play adjusted into it to allow it to turn freely. Sorry, just the way it is. The rule is the least amount of free play that will still turn freely in the tightest position. It's exactly the way you already adjust your chain. You rotate the crank and check for tight spots caused by the out of round chainwheels. You want a very small amount of chain play in the tightest position, use the same rule on your hub bearing adjustment.

The reason they gave directions to rotate the sprocket, while turning in the adjusting cone in was because the adjusting cone has a sun gear machined onto it. You need to mesh the sun and the planet gears at the same time as you are turning in the adjusting cone. I'd bet you already discovered that as it won't go together unless you rotate the sprocket.

John
 
The Automatic cone wrenches are just a 7/8" or 3/4" open ends, nothing special. What you need (special) is the recessed lock nut wrench. They are easy to fabricate if you have a buddy with a lathe. Just use a piece of hex stock, drill a 3/8" hole through it, and mill the flats. You can purchase them on eBay for inflated prices. They are a MUST HAVE tool for any Bendix Automatic work.

People get confused about bearing adjustment because there's two different types of "adjustable" bearings in the world. Roller, or you might call them Timken bearings require a preload. The preload is very small and on an automobile wheel it's so small it's only measured in "inch pounds", there's no free play, no loose feeling.

On ball bearings, like we see on most bicycles, they require a very small amount of free play. The free play is to accommodate the poor machining and low quality fit. For example, if you're working on a Pro Road bike with a Campanolo Record or Shimano Dura-Ace group, they are so precise you will notice almost no perceived bearing play on their ball bearings. On a cheaply machined Bendix Two Speed you need enough free play adjusted into it to allow it to turn freely. Sorry, just the way it is. The rule is the least amount of free play that will still turn freely in the tightest position. It's exactly the way you already adjust your chain. You rotate the crank and check for tight spots caused by the out of round chainwheels. You want a very small amount of chain play in the tightest position, use the same rule on your hub bearing adjustment.

The reason they gave directions to rotate the sprocket, while turning in the adjusting cone in was because the adjusting cone has a sun gear machined onto it. You need to mesh the sun and the planet gears at the same time as you are turning in the adjusting cone. I'd bet you already discovered that as it won't go together unless you rotate the sprocket.

John
John, I've had it completely together and apart and cleaned and regreased 5 times. I road tested each time. I already fabricated a "cone locknut wrench". The manual says tighten the sprocket side cone until fully seated and then back it off 1/3 of a turn. Is that enough? What do you do? With the 1/3 turn back-off, I get a little play, but not much. Much more, and it gets sloppy. The sound I get is an intermittent light metallic chatter. Nothing is getting hurt, but I don't like sounds. ?????????????????
 
John, I've had it completely together and apart and cleaned and regreased 5 times. I road tested each time. I already fabricated a "cone locknut wrench". The manual says tighten the sprocket side cone until fully seated and then back it off 1/3 of a turn. Is that enough? What do you do? With the 1/3 turn back-off, I get a little play, but not much. Much more, and it gets sloppy. The sound I get is an intermittent light metallic chatter. Nothing is getting hurt, but I don't like sounds. ?????????????????
Oh, I've got cone wrenches coming out of my bib overalls. It's the cone locknut wrench I need. If you've got a spare, let me know.
 
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