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I think that what John is pointing to is that no matter what #1 IS, it is a starting point. #2 applies to how and what you add to the frame and fork. These items help fit individuals to the fixed geometry and SIZE of the frame and fork you are building up. If you put a different fork on the frame that changes the frames' numbers, (longer, shorter, steeper or more lax with different offset), it will feel "different" with ride qualities changing no matter the parts mix. The chosen parts in #2 will affect how the old frame and fork end up "feeling" when rolling down the road. Frame geometry and fork offset is more noticeable when in Off-Road or in slower and tighter situations when you have to be more accurate in your line choices. These not-always-obvious riding qualities are even less noticeable when flying down the pavement going straight. No matter what the frame/fork numbers say, the person choosing the parts mix definately affects how the old fixed-number frame/fork will end up riding. That is just my experience after years of converting these old frames and forks to more "useable" riders. Variety is the spice of life I say when it comes to this. We also adjust and swap parts out over time on these old frames and forks, fine tuning them to our own personal preferences and based on the surfaces we are riding on. I feel that almost any old frame and fork, no matter the size, can be made to fit anyone. Just look at the tiny BMX bikes tall people set up to be "rideable"... Being tall and heavier, frame/fork flex is also noticeable to me bike to bike. The Monarch Silver King duraluminum flex-master frame was a noodle I ended up busting. All of the frames & forks I end up building and keeping around are heavy guage, and pretty stiff, and all exhibit a different personality at the end of the day based on how they are set up. I will say though that the most surprising thing I found when I did the AMPS 7-bike test a few years ago, the Westfield Fattie single speed came out on top. It was the most enjoyable when blind-rating them post-ride based on the most noticeable basic things. It came out that simple, in-the-middle geometry with the ability to move around on the seat, bars and pedals made for the most highly rated bike, not the fancy parts. Wide steerhorn bars, the three-springer seat and flat Torrington pedals allowed for multiple hand, seat and foot positions that helped a TON on the longer rides I typically do...I think every dimension is important, but it gets a little confusing.
I think you should break it up into two different areas. #1 would be those measurements that are built into the frame/fork by the frame builder and that are not adjustable without a Saw-z-all.
#2 would be the dimensions that are rider adjustable by seat post height, seat clamp fore and aft adjustment, handlebar and stem fore and aft, as well as height adjustments.
John
Nice addition to chart I guess maybe consider a column for frame size, esp for more modern mtb, as can affect wheelbase etc.
I think every dimension is important, but it gets a little confusing.
I think you should break it up into two different areas. #1 would be those measurements that are built into the frame/fork by the frame builder and that are not adjustable without a Saw-z-all.
#2 would be the dimensions that are rider adjustable by seat post height, seat clamp fore and aft adjustment, handlebar and stem fore and aft, as well as height adjustments.
John
I think that what John is pointing to is that no matter what #1 IS, it is a starting point. #2 applies to how and what you add to the frame and fork. These items help fit individuals to the fixed geometry and SIZE of the frame and fork you are building up. If you put a different fork on the frame that changes the frames' numbers, (longer, shorter, steeper or more lax with different offset), it will feel "different" with ride qualities changing no matter the parts mix. The chosen parts in #2 will affect how the old frame and fork end up "feeling" when rolling down the road. Frame geometry and fork offset is more noticeable when in Off-Road or in slower and tighter situations when you have to be more accurate in your line choices. These not-always-obvious riding qualities are even less noticeable when flying down the pavement going straight. No matter what the frame/fork numbers say, the person choosing the parts mix definately affects how the old fixed-number frame/fork will end up riding.