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Botched Resto

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Schwinnzer

'Lil Knee Scuffer
I have a cantilever frame (early 50s) that somebody previously tried to restore.(with piss poor results) looks like the dude used spray paint and stencil decals. I really don't like restored paint jobs.....So my question is what the hell do I do with it? Is it trade-able? Maybe for a later year . When I bought the frame I did not really think it through. Thanks for your opinions.
 
Pics?
I've scotchbrite'd, wet sanded, then polished amateur paint jobs with pretty decent results.
Knocks the shiny off, softens the sharp paint edges from the tape, makes them not so glaringly bad afterwards :laughing:
 
I have a cantilever frame (early 50s) that somebody previously tried to restore.(with piss poor results) looks like the dude used spray paint and stencil decals. I really don't like restored paint jobs.....So my question is what the hell do I do with it? Is it trade-able? Maybe for a later year . When I bought the frame I did not really think it through. Thanks for your opinions.


---- oh that's easy.

Take it to a bead blaster/ media blaster... Blast it. Then get some high quality etching primer, spray the whole frame immediately...
then get some High fill automotive red -oxide catalyzed primer....shoot that on good and thick... Then get yourself varying sand paper
grits for metal surfaces....I'd say 180-280 grits....a few sheets... start with the coarse...then work your way down to finer...
then after 4 hours of diligent sanding... Spray a bit more Hi fill red oxide in the bare/ or 'low' spots. Resand and blend those
areas.
Then go to the automotive paint supplier and order up Your favorite 2 tone Schwinn combination of colors in single stage
acrylic enamel or acrylic/eurathane.... PPG etc order the hardener and reducer and some good 3M compounds buffing and maybe "finesse"
and a glazing compound.....
Then be sure to get an exact color match of the Schwinn factory color (borrow an NOS piece of Schwinn sheet metal from a fellow
caber or collector) .... Then shoot the base color. Let cure a few days. Then go in an carefully measure and mask for the
darts or 2 tone variation. scuff that area with 600 grit....shoot the 2 tone.
Wait a few days for curing... Then color sand and buff your 'ledges' where the 2 colors meet, then compound out and buff. Then take it to you favorite
Pin striper for final touches!
Total all spent......maybe 24 hours labor and roughly 300.00-400.00 in materials..

And your dilemma is solved!

You will be delighted at the outcome!
 
---- oh that's easy.

Take it to a bead blaster/ media blaster... Blast it. Then get some high quality etching primer, spray the whole frame immediately...
then get some High fill automotive red -oxide catalyzed primer....shoot that on good and thick... Then get yourself varying sand paper
grits for metal surfaces....I'd say 180-280 grits....a few sheets... start with the coarse...then work your way down to finer...
then after 4 hours of diligent sanding... Spray a bit more Hi fill red oxide in the bare/ or 'low' spots. Resand and blend those
areas.
Then go to the automotive paint supplier and order up Your favorite 2 tone Schwinn combination of colors in single stage
acrylic enamel or acrylic/eurathane.... PPG etc order the hardener and reducer and some good 3M compounds buffing and maybe "finesse"
and a glazing compound.....
Then be sure to get an exact color match of the Schwinn factory color (borrow an NOS piece of Schwinn sheet metal from a fellow
caber or collector) .... Then shoot the base color. Let cure a few days. Then go in an carefully measure and mask for the
darts or 2 tone variation. scuff that area with 600 grit....shoot the 2 tone.
Wait a few days for curing... Then color sand and buff your 'ledges' where the 2 colors meet, then compound out and buff. Then take it to you favorite
Pin striper for final touches!
Total all spent......maybe 24 hours labor and roughly 300.00-400.00 in materials..

And your dilemma is solved!

You will be delighted at the outcome!
Hahaha well I'm not opposed to shalacking a decent paint job. I'll probly powder coat it, and move on. I just hate when people ruin a good old patina on an 64 year old bike. These backyard bike builders get pretty trigger happy with rattle cans. When I bought it I was unlearned in the ways of schwinn forgery/restoration, and I purchased said bike for a premium amount, under the impression it was original. So I guess it's best to fix the botched work and try and recover some lost funds. Thanks for the advice .
 
---- oh that's easy.

Take it to a bead blaster/ media blaster... Blast it. Then get some high quality etching primer, spray the whole frame immediately...
then get some High fill automotive red -oxide catalyzed primer....shoot that on good and thick... Then get yourself varying sand paper
grits for metal surfaces....I'd say 180-280 grits....a few sheets... start with the coarse...then work your way down to finer...
then after 4 hours of diligent sanding... Spray a bit more Hi fill red oxide in the bare/ or 'low' spots. Resand and blend those
areas.
Then go to the automotive paint supplier and order up Your favorite 2 tone Schwinn combination of colors in single stage
acrylic enamel or acrylic/eurathane.... PPG etc order the hardener and reducer and some good 3M compounds buffing and maybe "finesse"
and a glazing compound.....
Then be sure to get an exact color match of the Schwinn factory color (borrow an NOS piece of Schwinn sheet metal from a fellow
caber or collector) .... Then shoot the base color. Let cure a few days. Then go in an carefully measure and mask for the
darts or 2 tone variation. scuff that area with 600 grit....shoot the 2 tone.
Wait a few days for curing... Then color sand and buff your 'ledges' where the 2 colors meet, then compound out and buff. Then take it to you favorite
Pin striper for final touches!
Total all spent......maybe 24 hours labor and roughly 300.00-400.00 in materials..

And your dilemma is solved!

You will be delighted at the outcome!
 
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