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Can you adjust derailleur Tension on a Schwinn Sprint/Huret Allivit?

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I size my chains by having the cage & jockey wheels canted forward & down at about a 45 degree angle when in the big-big combination.
I don't think I've ever had a problem with doing it that way.
Another thing to watch for is the ability of the derailleur body itself being able to pivot back & forth at the attachment to the mounting claw.
I see a lot of pics of these derailleurs where the body is canted back, showing that it's locked up tight at that location.
It can be a finicky adjustment to make to get all the side to side slop out, but still retain the ability to pivot.
There are stops built in that restrict how far the body can pivot both forward and back.
 
Somehow the forum did not see fit to let me know anyone had responded! GAH. Thank you all!

Trying to get through the questions...

-Varsity is a '68, but I suppose I don't know if the derailleur is the original unit... I know the stem/bars are off a newer Varsity and I got the bike with no wheelset at all.
-Derailleur moves freely, is not bound up on the pivot
-It only has 2 spring adjustment stops on the cage, and it's in the higher tension one already (I think... when facing it, it's the top/left one, if that makes sense)
-I took 2 links out and put them back in already- absolutely refused to go in the largest set of chainrings otherwise.
-GTs58's Varsity's chain is sagging similarly... is this just "how it is"?
 
I would say the amount of chain sag on GTs58's '64 model looks about normal for the small/small combination.
As mentioned previously, the springs probably lose some tension over the years.
I always store my bikes in the small/small combination to relax the springs and minimize it.
 
Not sure B/C years since I'd rebuild and or restored used Schwinn 10 speeds to sell, 1972 was the last time and so, older than whatever Schwinn made before 72. . I remember that same sloppy tension like GT's. When it's like that the shifting is not smooth as should be and causes excessive wear. But, Pretty sure I was able to tighten or wrap the spring (2152) another turn er somtin like that. Another notch maybe. IDK I didn't have any guidance except determination and once I'd figured it out, it might have been a little tricky or tough to get the spring tighter but, solved it. .

I mean, I'd strip every thing including spokes so I could polish rims hubs and nipples like new. Back then you could actually make money doing it. B/C it's been so long, can't remember exactly what or how except, pretty sure it's that spring and a way to increase tension there.
 
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@Jeff54 I think you're right.
It's been a long time since I've torn one of these down to go through it, but I seem to remember when reassembling that you have to wind that spring around to get tension on it, so you might be able to wind it an extra turn.
 
Just wondering...you mentioned that the wheel set is not original...for reference, what freewheel tooth count is on that wheel set and what is the front chainring tooth combo? Many of the Schwinns of that era had a 14-28 (or less...14-25) rear with a 52/39 front, but the post-1970 Super Sports came with a 14-32 rear...and that was also when Schwinn introduced the Allvit with the longer cage for more chain take-up. Can't tell from the pics, but if your freewheel has a larger cog than 28, the spread is likely too much for the regular cage Allvit.
 
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