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Cantilever Straddle wire Question.

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Sven

Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
I told ya @Schwinn Sales West, there would be more "kickin' around"
Here we go....

This Shimano rear cantilever set up came with a "B" (82mm) straddle wire.
Calvin from Park Tool states that the mounting post screw and the brake pad post holder should be somewhat parallel to each other.
As you can see ...they arent.
20240513_090530 (3).jpg

My question is......
Is this close enough or should I get an "A" (73mm) straddle wire?
Or
Use the old setup
20240513_095334.jpg

Thanks.
 
I told ya @Schwinn Sales West, there would be more "kickin' around"
Here we go....

This Shimano rear cantilever set up came with a "B" (82mm) straddle wire.
Calvin from Park Tool states that the mounting post screw and the brake pad post holder should be somewhat parallel to each other.
As you can see ...they arent.
View attachment 2039829
My question is......
Is this close enough or should I get an "A" (73mm) straddle wire?
Or
Use the old setup
View attachment 2039847
Thanks.

I do not understand the problem. How can you consider anything until after you have adjusted the brake pads to the rim? Run the brake pad posts in a little, set the pad to rim toe, center the cantilever balance spring screw and then see where your at?

John
 
^^ what John said Sven! I found that when dealing with cantilever brakes over the past 40 years, the straddle wire, if shorter, gave more power than a longer straddle wire. Shorter cable is stiffer and pulls harder with less "modulation" than a long one. Then there is the angle that the straddle wire is pulling on the arm right when the pads contact the rim that determines the power you get out of the cantis. But that is a different subject not related to the question you asked. Not sure about the "parallel" comment, never heard that before. Good thing is that when cantis are set up perfect with good toe-in and solid contact and alignment, they stop very well.
 
If you go to the 3:00 minute section..this is where I am getting this parallel concept


Of course RJ the Bike Guy does thevset up different.

And this gentleman uses mathematical analysis to find mechanical advantage in regard to cantilever brakes.
Screenshot_20240513-112745_YouTube.jpg
 
^^ what John said Sven! I found that when dealing with cantilever brakes over the past 40 years, the straddle wire, if shorter, gave more power than a longer straddle wire. Shorter cable is stiffer and pulls harder with less "modulation" than a long one. Then there is the angle that the straddle wire is pulling on the arm right when the pads contact the rim that determines the power you get out of the cantis. But that is a different subject not related to the question you asked. Not sure about the "parallel" comment, never heard that before. Good thing is that when cantis are set up perfect with good toe-in and solid contact and alignment, they stop very well.
So in regards to Calvin's parallel concept , you're telling me...

20240513_115440.gif
 
Not exactly Sven. I think he means that you should have the arms parallel to the wheel and themselves before you set your pads to contact the rim and before you set up the angle of the straddle cable dangle that's all. Not BS but a part of the process/equation...😎
 
Not exactly Sven. I think he means that you should have the arms parallel to the wheel and themselves before you set your pads to contact the rim and before you set up the angle of the straddle cable dangle that's all. Not BS but a part of the process/equation...😎
Sven, Your splitting hairs. He does step 3 then step 4 in his video. I would do his step 4, then his step 3.

It really does not matter if you put the cream or the sugar first into your coffee. What is important is that you stir the mixture.

John

200-2.gif

Thanks guys. Never did cantilever brakes before. Just realized my "Dutch Bike" has cantilevers hmmm. It has been a great learning experience...plus its not my bike, so what a perfect specimen..Just kidding. The rear came out perfect Just ordered the front ones. The originals look shoddy.

I thought adjusting the rear derailleur was gonna be a "Kicking around" subject. But a few adjustments and it was there.

Thanks again guys.
 
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