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Chain Tensioner for Balloon Tire Bike?

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RadRacer203

'Lil Knee Scuffer
I'm working on my '52 Murray today, taking off the crappy Chinese chain tensioner I had on there as a temporary fix. I shortened the chain a couple links and it looks a lot better, but the oversize 26x2.35 tires I had in it rub the frame. Is there any way I can get the back wheel to move back an extra 1/8"? I was thinking of either putting on a stretched out old chain or a tensioner, but none of the new tensioners look good on this thing. I'm going for a sort of 60's custom theme on this thing with no new parts, and it's looking really good but it just doesn't look right without the oversize tires.

I'll try and post some pictures soon, I'm pretty proud of this thing. Once I can get the oversize tires on, it's pretty much exactly the bike I've always wanted- Bendix 2 speed hub, Schwinn crank with smaller sprocket, rat trap pedals, period headlight, reupholstered Troxel seat, and an NOS Cat Eye reflector on the rear. I even managed to save the original white rims with the red pinstripe that none of the local shops said were salvageable
 
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Here are a few pictures, I built this thing last year. In the pics it has the crappy Chinese tensioner on it along with the oversize tires. I polished, buffed, and wiped a coat of Val Oil over the entire bike before assembly. All original paint.
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KMC and others make half links for various width 1/2" pitch chains, that might help.

I was thinking about that, but I can't figure out what size chain I have. It's made by KMC but there's no markings indicating the size. I ordered one after measuring it but it was too big for my chain
 
If your axle is all the way back in the dropout, then no, there is no way to move it back farther. Try this:

1.Get rid of the tensioner.

2.Try loosening the axle nuts and see if you can move the wheel back farther. If this fixes the problem, proceed to #3.
If it doesn't fix the problem, see #4 after completing #3.

3. Shorten the chain to the proper length and you won't need to use the tensioner.

4. Is the tire rubbing the frame all the time, or only rubbing in certain spots? If it's only rubbing in certain spots, try truing the wheel and that may solve the rubbing issue.
 
The wheel is actually almost all the way forward in the dropout now that I deleted the tensioner. Even with a set of 26x2.10 tires it still just barely rubs. The chain is as tight as I dare make it, but I need the wheel to move back about a quarter inch or so. The wheel is pretty true and when it's not rubbing it's 1/16" away from the frame
 
Also, your chainring is backwards. While I don't think it's contributing to the issue you're having, it may cause premature chain wear.
I have seen them mounted backwards on 5 speed bikes, but on single and two speed bikes it is supposed to be flipped around.
 
Also, your chainring is backwards. While I don't think it's contributing to the issue you're having, it may cause premature chain wear.
I have seen them mounted backwards on 5 speed bikes, but on single and two speed bikes it is supposed to be flipped around.

Yeah, I flipped it because it's not the stock crank, rear hub, or crank sprocket. With all those changes it seemed to line up better that way
 
The wheel is actually almost all the way forward in the dropout now that I deleted the tensioner. Even with a set of 26x2.10 tires it still just barely rubs. The chain is as tight as I dare make it, but I need the wheel to move back about a quarter inch or so. The wheel is pretty true and when it's not rubbing it's 1/16" away from the frame

That doesn't make any sense. The only purpose of the tensioner is to take up the slack from the chain being too long. It looks like with the tensioner off, you should have pleanty of chain to move the axle all the way back in the dropout.
 
Without the tensioner, and with the previous chain length the chain was too long, I took out 1 link and it's too short now. If I have that extra link and push the wheel back, the tire rubs the fender, if I remove it and tension it, it rubs the frame
 
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