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Chain Tensioner for Balloon Tire Bike?

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Without the tensioner, and with the previous chain length the chain was too long, I took out 1 link and it's too short now. If I have that extra link and push the wheel back, the tire rubs the fender, if I remove it and tension it, it rubs the frame

Maybe move the wheel all the way back, and see if you can attach the rear fender brace to the axle, rather than the frame? Looks like it may give you a little more fender clearance? Just "thinking out loud"
 
"Extreme" measures, you could dimple the frame where the tire hits.

Less extreme measure, change the sprocket or the cog on the hub, meaning add a tooth or lose one, to put the wheel where you need it.
 
Less extreme measure, change the sprocket or the cog on the hub, meaning add a tooth or lose one, to put the wheel where you need it.

Now that's not a bad idea, but where would I get a new sprocket for the bendix hub? I'd probably either go 1 larger on that or 1 smaller on the crank sprocket. It currently has a 46t on the crank and an 18t on the hub
 
Now that's not a bad idea, but where would I get a new sprocket for the bendix hub? I'd probably either go 1 larger on that or 1 smaller on the crank sprocket. It currently has a 46t on the crank and an 18t on the hub

Good luck finding a kickback cog in anything other than 18t.
A 44t chain ring would be easy to find, a 48t probably wouldn't be too bad either.

I was thinking about that, but I can't figure out what size chain I have. It's made by KMC but there's no markings indicating the size. I ordered one after measuring it but it was too big for my chain

You must be using a narrow chain then. Normal chains for use without a derailer is 1/8" wide by 1/2" pitch.
 
I would definitely want a smaller 44t sprocket rather than the 48t. Lots of hills in my area. But with that smaller sprocket, I think I might have the same issue with it being too far back and rubbing on the fender in back.
 
Can anyone tell me what size chain I have? All it says on the side is KMC and 6K-2. I did some measuring and I think just a half link should do it. If anyone has a spare 44t sprocket I wouldn't mind one of those either. Always better to have more options
 
I would definitely want a smaller 44t sprocket rather than the 48t. Lots of hills in my area. But with that smaller sprocket, I think I might have the same issue with it being too far back and rubbing on the fender in back.

Then you take a link out of the chain.

There is a happy place where it will all work, you just have to play around and find it.
 
I just re-did the math.
An added half link (1/2") results in about 1/4" move of the axle in the drop-outs.
A 1-tooth change, (in either front or rear), results in a 1/8" move in the drop-outs.
 
Is it possible that your bike is a middleweight? That would explain tight clearance....
 
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