Chains and Cog issues

[sccruiser]

I need some advise .. I have a Morrow/Eclipse hub with a fresh rebuild on it. 10 tooth Cog is in great shape no Shark teeth real clean. When I put pressure on chain to accelerate , the chain links are popping off the rear cog teeth at end of rotation causing the dreaded click. I took this chain off my old main rider ,but old wheel had a New Departure hub and sprocket. . Is it possible chain has just worn in and stretched with old cog and just mesh with Morrow. ??
ps.. wheel is centered and I have tried different slacks in chain. I know its not to tight.

 

[juvela]

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If we are talking 1/2" pitch a simple way to check/measure chain "stretch" is to meausre a length of chain consisting of twenty-five pins. A new chain will measure twelve inches. However much longer it may be than twelve inches gives and indication of its wear ("stretch").

Old chains and cogs have a tendency to wear in together so that they can be fairly worn and still not skip. However, when one matches new to old a skipping can ensue...

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[Mr. Monkeyarms]

Measure from one pin in the chain to another at the 12" mark. Doesn't matter what kind of chain, they all have a pin at 12" on center. If the pin is more than about 1/16" longer, chain is stretched and will only work smoothly with the cog and chainring that it wore out with it.

 

[buickmike]

Could be different. Spacing on different hub that is the sprocket and rear cog are no longer inline

 

[sccruiser]

Yeah Im gonna have to throw a tape measure on links when I get home. thanks guys !! I didnt want to spend the duckets on a new skiptooth chain but may have to.

 

[Boris]

I'm with buickmike about checking the alignment of the sprocket and cog.

 

[Mr. Monkeyarms]

Yep, like buickmike and Boris say, check the chainline as well. It will make a rough grinding noise but jumping the cog or binding typically indicates a stretched chain.

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

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If we are talking 1/2" pitch a simple way to check/measure chain "stretch" is to meausre a length of chain consisting of twenty-five pins. A new chain will measure twelve inches. However much longer it may be than twelve inches gives and indication of its wear ("stretch").

Old chains and cogs have a tendency to wear in together so that they can be fairly worn and still not skip. However, when one matches new to old a skipping can ensue...

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I know this is an old thread. I feel it's an important, often overlooked subject that needs to be discussed.

Juvela, and Monkeyarms have both "hit the nail on the head" above with their accurate advice.

Chains wear and stretch; they stretch a lot! This stretch goes unnoticed when the wear on the chain matches the wear on both sprocket and chainring.

Many of us (me included) assemble our rides from many different part sources. Even on a bike that we got all assembled, we might need to make a gear change to allow easy riding. If you install a "like new" rear sprocket and use the used chain that was on the bicycle you stand the chance of having an incompatible combination of parts. Just because all of the parts are 1/2 by 1/8, or 3/16 by 1" is not enough to provide a smooth working drive system. Take the few minutes to actually measure your chain wear and keep the worn parts with the worn parts, don't try to mix new parts with worn parts. It's easy to measure even if you don't have a Park chain wear gauge.

I'm surprised that you guys spend hundreds of dollars buying used chains and not ask the important question HOW MUCH STRETCH does the chain have? This information should be included in the for-sale ad description, IMO. If the chain is NOS, or like new in 'pin to pin' length it should sell for more money. The "worn out" chains are good only for a "wall hanger bike". Please know the difference.

At our shop, we had two chains hanging next to the service write up desk. One was worn, as in very worn! The other was a brand new Sedis chain. They were 1" different in total length, hard to believe that the bike would still be rideable, and shift.

John

 

[SKPC]

Yes, ask the used chain salesmen to measure the stretch but you won't buy them when you have the answer. They all are for the most part stretched, some much more than others, and perhaps this is why it is never mentioned. It should be. Visual clues to help with avoiding or buying used chains are: Pits on the side plates of any kind anywhere on the chain means abused and worn out. If there is "bluing" remaining on a used Diamond skippy, they are generally low mile and are less worn. Nobody is interested in making 1" pitch chains and I would think they would fly off the shelves at $60. Must be the tooling cost that stops it cold. An inside tip for those in need is to buy any used chain with bluing remaining on the plates, including pieces and short lengths when available. They do show up here on occasion.

 

[cyclingday]

Yep!
When it comes to chains/chainrings, cogs, bearings and spokes.
New Old Stock, is the only way to go!

P.S. Then, to have enough bikes in the collection to rotate through, that you’ll never wear any of them out in your lifetime.