Clear Over Rust

[SamG]

Gun Oil!!! Works killer, no residue!! Also good on old painted surfaces! Have used it for years.

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It does look good!!! A bit pricey though, no?!? I like the smell lol!!!

 

[SirMike1983]

Patina is more the thin layer of coloration that forms on non-ferrous metals like copper (verdigris usually). Rust is a more active and detrimental thing. If you like the rust color or heavy relic look, there's nothing wrong with that, but it will have to be treated or sealed (unless you live somewhere very dry).

Clear coating has pitfalls. If the surface is not thoroughly prepped, it can bubble. A break in the coating is a problem. One of the telltale signs of a break is when you see areas of more pronounced or brighter brown expanding over time underneath the clear coat. Clear coating can be stripped but many of the same chemicals also strip paint you want to preserve underneath. I think the best candidate for clear coat is a part or a bike with no original paint left, a bare metal finish, and where you can totally break it down and prep the surface throughout.

Other than that, I'd be inclined to treat with an oil or wax. I use Renaissance Wax on small stuff, but a whole bike is going to be a bit much. I'd look at a good quality automotive wax instead for a whole bike.

If you like the "blue-black" look, you can boil rust. The process is to boil, card, and then oil or wax.

 

[SamG]

My spine dr says start with the least invasive and work your way up. You might get more out of the ‘small’ stuff than you realize.

Very good advice!!!

 

[SamG]

Patina is more the thin layer of coloration that forms on non-ferrous metals like copper (verdigris usually). Rust is a more active and detrimental thing. If you like the rust color or heavy relic look, there's nothing wrong with that, but it will have to be treated or sealed (unless you live somewhere very dry).

Clear coating has pitfalls. If the surface is not thoroughly prepped, it can bubble. A break in the coating is a problem. One of the telltale signs of a break is when you see areas of more pronounced or brighter brown expanding over time underneath the clear coat. Clear coating can be stripped but many of the same chemicals also strip paint you want to preserve underneath. I think the best candidate for clear coat is a part or a bike with no original paint left, a bare metal finish, and where you can totally break it down and prep the surface throughout.

Other than that, I'd be inclined to treat with an oil or wax. I use Renaissance Wax on small stuff, but a whole bike is going to be a bit much. I'd look at a good quality automotive wax instead for a whole bike.

If you like the "blue-black" look, you can boil rust. The process is to boil, card, and then oil or wax.

Thank you and also good advice.... I actually just returned from the hardware store with some boiled linseed oil and going to give that a try!!!

 

[SamG]

I went with the linseed. Not the greatest pictures but the one in the pickup is before. Pay no attention to the seat it's what was on the bike when I took it home yesterday. Today I disassembled, repacked bearings, cleaned it up a bit with Scotch-Brite and steel wool. I swapped out tires with another cruiser but the 2.125 is too fat and slightly rubs. 26 x1.75 is what came off and what I need. Otherwise it did alright around the block.

 

[ian]

I went with the linseed. Not the greatest pictures but the one in the pickup is before. Pay no attention to the seat it's what was on the bike when I took it home yesterday. Today I disassembled, repacked bearings, cleaned it up a bit with Scotch-Brite and steel wool. I swapped out tires with another cruiser but the 2.125 is too fat and slightly rubs. 26 x1.75 is what came off and what I need. Otherwise it did alright around the block.

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Be sure to discard the applicator rag properly! I soak mine in water, seal in a zippie bag and then put it in the trash.
The rag can spontaneously burn!

 

[SamG]

Be sure to discard the applicator rag properly! I soak mine in water, seal in a zippie bag and then put it in the trash.
The rag can spontaneously burn!

Yes!!! I saw that!!!

 

[mrg]

I recently saw a 1932 that the owner simply clear coated to preserve the rusted “patina”. I liked the effect and didn’t realize that was a thing until now. Any opinions? What preparation is necessary (if any)? What results will different finish produce (I.e. matte vs. satin vs. gloss)?

Ya clear coat was a think about 10 yrs ago, now not so much, BLO is the way to go!

 

[Olds442]

POR 15 makes a matte 2 part clear they say is designed to stop rust, and preserve patina It’s on their site.

 

[fordmike65]