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Cleveland Welding S/N Project...See Page 58 Post 576 for chart

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Differently pre war, looks CWC but Snyder built versions used that fork more, is the upper rear fender mount strait or curved, that will tell for sure but its looks CWC, I dont know serial # but probably 39-41, nice pick up!

The rear upper fender strut is straight.
 
Year?

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Hi All,

About 10yrs ago I worked at a bike shop in Toronto and got a bit of the collecting bug...after scooping up 10 or so bikes, when it came time to leave the city, the only one I wanted to hang onto was my RoadMaster.
I'll ask for a little help in dating it, please, as I'm a little confused with the "D" serial numbers. Mine also has a name of an individual stamped into the frame with the serial number and I'm wondering if this might have been done at the factory as a request, or afterwards.

Many thanks in advance,
Doc
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Hey Doc, that stamping surely wasn't done at the factory.
The sufffix "A Cw" was started in 1951 after AMF bought CWC. My guess is 1951.
The surefire CWC experts should chime in to confirm or prove me wrong, once again.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
Hey Doc, that stamping surely wasn't done at the factory.
The sufffix "A Cw" was started in 1951 after AMF bought CWC. My guess is 1951.
The surefire CWC experts should chime in to confirm or prove me wrong, once again.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Thanks jd56! I was told it was a "51 skip tooth" so you may indeed be bang on the money. I want to have it restored aswell, so, any guess what these things are worth? I see they can go fairly cheap on ebay so I'm just trying to weigh the costs. I can likely manage most of the mechanical stuff myself but I'll want to get the paint done right for sure.

Thanks,
Doc
 
Doc, these 3 gills are popular and there are quite a few out there in the hobby. Given how well these Roadmaster ride, it would make sense there are so many.
I like em in the paint condition just like yours. WD4O and some 0000 steelwool rundown is best and perhaps some rubbing or polishing compound on the tough areas.
Value...they range from $200-400 depending on condition.
Repainted bikes loose value in my opinion.
Dust him off, clean him up and service the bearings. Then ride the wheels off of it.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
Doc, these 3 gills are popular and there are quite a few out there in the hobby. Given how well these Roadmaster ride, it would make sense there are so many.
I like em in the paint condition just like yours. WD4O and some 0000 steelwool rundown is best and perhaps some rubbing or polishing compound on the tough areas.
Value...they range from $200-400 depending on condition.
Repainted bikes loose value in my opinion.
Dust him off, clean him up and service the bearings. Then ride the wheels off of it.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
I like your style jd56! No re-painting it is...just gotta get that front light I'm missing and get to the elbow grease ☺
 
I like your style jd56! No re-painting it is...just gotta get that front light I'm missing and get to the elbow grease ☺

White and pin striping has a tendency to be very dry and so, be very careful if you use steel wool on those areas as they may rub right off before you know it. .

Where rust is in the white, carful application of light acids, like cheap toilet bowl cleaner can clean the white and eat the rust at the same time, Test it first. But don't get it on the pin stripes. . check other sections around these here parts for more cleaning, brightening and polishing tips.
 
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