Correct Lacing

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WillWork4Parts

Finally riding a big boys bike
Thanks for all the feedback. I have not trued it yet, possibly today. All the spokes are still showing 1 to 2mm at the top of the nipple and I haven't started tightening yet. I'll post some more picts when I get it finished.
If you ever end up with like 1/4" to 3/8" sticking out the top, you're wheel will probably take another cross on the lace....atleast from what I remember with trial and error jobs.
 

marching_out

Finally riding a big boys bike
Finally got some decent weather this afternoon. Truing went well. The only problem is when to stop tweaking. I worked on it and came back a couple of days later and tweaked it. Did that 3 or 4 times before telling myself it was good enough. Don't have a great way to connect it to the fork other than the muffler clamp. My only concern is the amount of threads still outside the nipple. Does anyone consider this to be an issue?
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PapaPengin

Look Ma, No Hands!
Finally got some decent weather this afternoon. Truing went well. The only problem is when to stop tweaking. I worked on it and came back a couple of days later and tweaked it. Did that 3 or 4 times before telling myself it was good enough. Don't have a great way to connect it to the fork other than the muffler clamp. My only concern is the amount of threads still outside the nipple. Does anyone consider this to be an issue?
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Sturmey Archer makes a clamp specifically for the drum brake arm on the fork. There's a couple of different sizes, so you'd be best to determine the size of your fork. The hose clamp works too, just not as asthetically pleasing. Bike looks great!
 

Barfbucket

Finally riding a big boys bike
Finally got some decent weather this afternoon. Truing went well. The only problem is when to stop tweaking. I worked on it and came back a couple of days later and tweaked it. Did that 3 or 4 times before telling myself it was good enough. Don't have a great way to connect it to the fork other than the muffler clamp. My only concern is the amount of threads still outside the nipple. Does anyone consider this to be an issue?
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You can use an alloy seat post clamp to hold the brake arm. The SA clamp is the best because it’s the easiest to get the brake arm out of for a flat tire field repair.
 

Goldenrod

I live for the CABE
Finally got some decent weather this afternoon. Truing went well. The only problem is when to stop tweaking. I worked on it and came back a couple of days later and tweaked it. Did that 3 or 4 times before telling myself it was good enough. Don't have a great way to connect it to the fork other than the muffler clamp. My only concern is the amount of threads still outside the nipple. Does anyone consider this to be an issue?
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I have a bell like that and it is impressive.
 

GTs58

I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
Having that much threading above the nipple concerns me. How far in the nipple are the spokes? To the top of the rim or less? If I had that much thread above the nipples on my Sapin spokes, they wouldn't be threaded at all.
If you like, I can summons "The Spokemaster" to see what he thinks. 😜
 

The Spokemaster

Finally riding a big boys bike
Everything perfect in a perfect world ( and keep in mind, we don't live there ) the spoke should come just to the BOTTOM of the screwdriver SLOT at the HEAD of the nipple ....visible by looking into the rim and then viewing the nipple ( top of nipple head ) from the OUTSIDE DIAMETER of the rim = TIRE MUST BE REMOVED TO VIEW THE TOP OF THE 'HEAD' OF THE NIPPLE

Threads visible outside of the nipple ( portion of spoke on the INSIDE DIAMETER of the rim ) frequently are evidence of a 'problem' ....although, using 'short' nipples on spokes with a 1/2" inch / 12.7mm threaded portion ( say, like Torrington / Ohio Rod ) this can easily be the outcome with no 'ill-effects'

Most current production spokes DT - Sapim and more.... have 10mm of thread on the spoke -the old Torrington / Ohio Rod spokes had 12.7mm of thread on the spoke ....may not sound like much, but with those Torrington / Ohio Rod spokes, that's 27% MORE thread = ( a lot ) than most current production spokes like DT / SAPIM
 
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Barfbucket

Finally riding a big boys bike
Having that much threading above the nipple concerns me. How far in the nipple are the spokes? To the top of the rim or less? If I had that much thread above the nipples on my Sapin spokes, they wouldn't be threaded at all.
If you like, I can summons "The Spokemaster" to see what he thinks. 😜
They could shear off when braking. It’s not right but it might be OK because those front brakes are weak. The rocking of the front suspension is an unknown to me as far as adding shearing stress? I’ve done that before with a coaster and gotten away with it with easy riding. I only weigh 155 pounds, which might be the reason, 200+ pound rider might not be so lucky? I’ve also had custom spokes made and they sent three spoke nipple lengths along with the spokes.
 
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WillWork4Parts

Finally riding a big boys bike
I was thinking you meant threads poking out the top of the rim as in the liner area at first.

Yeah, I'd put it on the stand, let the air out of the tire and unthread the nipple showing the most thread. The liner should hold the nipple in place once you've backed completely off the threads(there is a recess to the nipple where there aren't threads and it varies). The difference between threads showing on that spoke minus the threads showing on the next spoke on the same side of the rim (that is still tight) will show you how many threads are actually engaging.

Being realistic, if you're running S2 rims on a bike with a Springer, I don't think you plan to go taking it off any sweet jumps. Personal opinion, 1/4" of threads engaged would be enough for regular riding conditions, considering these are heavy gauge. But if you are planning to jump it, motorize it, or make it a workhorse cargo hauler, etc., I would definitely get spokes long enough to engage threads past the start of the nipple.

I've got the same opinion about these drum brakes, they impart more torque force, sure, but even new ones don't have the force to lock up and shear parts.
 

WillWork4Parts

Finally riding a big boys bike
You can use an alloy seat post clamp to hold the brake arm. The SA clamp is the best because it’s the easiest to get the brake arm out of for a flat tire field repair.
Which Sturmey Archer clamp are we talking about? The one I'm familiar with has a slot for specific Sturmey arms to slide into.
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The hub on this bike isn't Sturmey and has that adjustable slot mount intended for use with a standard coaster brake style clamp.
 
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