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Crank help!

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To clear up a little confusion (or maybe add to it) Ashtabula was a manufacturer, not a type of crank despite what wikipedia says. They were the best of the best and were mainly a supplier to Schwinn. They are basically unbreakable.

When I said there were 2 categories, Shcwinn and everyone else, I was referring to Chicago USA made Schwinns with (usually) Ashtabula-made cranks in them. I would suspect that newer Schwinns made by others after the factory closed would probably not have a proprietary Schwinn-threaded crank in them.

If you get a crank out of an old USA Schwinn it will be an unbreakable piece, but you will have to change your bearing set (all of it).

The trouble with the "everything else" category is that it might be every bit as good as USA Schwinn. Plenty of the stuff we see on this site is. Heck, even Ashtabula themselves made some cranks with the "everything else" threads on them during the early BMX era. On the other hand, you might wind up with something out of an 80s department store bike that is almost as soft as lead. It is so hard to tell from pictures exactly what you are getting.

Speaking of soft as lead, In about 81 I got an new trail cruiser made by one of those companies that makes department store bikes. The crank broke off at the pedal hole on the first day I had it. I put a real Ashtabula BMX crank and some Schwinn bearings in it and never looked back. I only bring this up because that pedal hole is a highly stressed area, and I don't think it would be a good idea to bore it out to 3/4".
 
If you go the machine shop route, remember one pedal hole is left-hand threaded (the left side--non drive side). If they don't thread it that way, you'll be picking your pedal off the pavement every 3 minutes. I see now--the picture clearly shows it to be the drive -side--never mind
 
thanks everyone for the advice. I admit that I was a bit nervous about cutting bigger holes in the cranks as there's not much room to play with. I went to my local machine shop (West of Scotland Engineering who do very high quality work) and he said he can fill the hole and re-bore a new 1/2" threaded hole in the original CWC crank for 10 bucks!
However, it doesn't stop there as the pedals are in pretty bad shape! If I was in the States I could buy a pair of age-appropriate pedals or convincing repops without much problem, but over here in the UK EVERYTHING is 9/16".
Im sure I'll work it out (and I'll post the results)
 
I often use pedal extension adapters which may be found in 1/2”-20 tpi male and 9/16”-20 tpi female.
As far as compatibility of OPC’s goes, more recently, a factor is the crank shaft thread pitch, common 24 tpi and less common 28 tpi, with corresponding threads on the bearing cones and jam nut.
I believe that when a bike shop/store states that something is very cheap, they might be trying to sell something more expensive(?).
 
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