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Crank removal help, please...

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guzziworksman

Finally riding a big boys bike
I'm a bit embarrassed to post this, it's so simple...but: I'm cleaning up a '58 Gazelle, and I want to clean/lube the crank. This nut on the non-drive side is the only way to extract the crank, and I can't get it to budge. Any tips? (Being on the non-drive side, it IS reverse (left)-threaded, yes?). Thanks.
1407121
 
I'm a bit embarrassed to post this, it's so simple...but: I'm cleaning up a '58 Gazelle, and I want to clean/lube the crank. This nut on the non-drive side is the only way to extract the crank, and I can't get it to budge. Any tips? (Being on the non-drive side, it IS reverse (left)-threaded, yes?). Thanks.
View attachment 1407121
It should not be reverse thread, probably need a longer breaker bar. Is the crank in a vise if not need to put something on that side as well. Good luck
 
probably need a longer breaker bar
Leverage is a wonderful thing. But also, if it don't turn the way you think it should, try the opposite way. This sometimes breaks things loose. And sometimes you find out that your first assumption was wrong. And sometimes you find out that some knucklehead cross threaded the whole thing. For example, I picked up a bike once that had the left pedal on the right side and the right pedal on the left side. The person who assembled that gets low marks for mechanical aptitude but high marks for perseverance.
 
Yeah...I tried tracing the thread pattern...but I couldn't come to a final conclusion. Maybe I'll break out the magnifying glass. I will report back. And thanks to all for the suggestions/encouragement.
 
Leverage is a wonderful thing. But also, if it don't turn the way you think it should, try the opposite way. This sometimes breaks things loose. And sometimes you find out that your first assumption was wrong. And sometimes you find out that some knucklehead cross threaded the whole thing. For example, I picked up a bike once that had the left pedal on the right side and the right pedal on the left side. The person who assembled that gets low marks for mechanical aptitude but high marks for perseverance.

Exactly, when I'd come across a stubborn thread, I'd apply some heat, then Kano Kroil and let it cool. Once cool, rock the nut back and forth. Start gently and gradually build strength. Don't force it too much in any one direction. What you're looking to do is to break up whatever crud is sealing the thing and allow the oil in gradually as you rock the nut back and forth. Eventually it will release and then you "feel" your way out by turning. If you feel it tightening down as opposed to backing off or loosening, make a note and you'll know the direction.
 
Ok...it's off! Turns out, it was a left-hand thread. My methodology: reattach the crank arm on the opposite (chain ring) side. Place the frame right-size up on the floor, so that crank arm will bear against the floor (I slipped a piece of 2 x 4 under the crank arm to kind of "cushion" it ) and keep the crank from turning as I worked the nut on the other side. I then put a 15" crescent wrench on the nut...and gave it a couple of careful, firm whacks with a 3-lb. hammer. The nut turned, and I was a happy guy. Thanks to all for your helpful posts!!
 
Ok...it's off! Turns out, it was a left-hand thread. My methodology: reattach the crank arm on the opposite (chain ring) side. Place the frame right-size up on the floor, so that crank arm will bear against the floor (I slipped a piece of 2 x 4 under the crank arm to kind of "cushion" it ) and keep the crank from turning as I worked the nut on the other side. I then put a 15" crescent wrench on the nut...and gave it a couple of careful, firm whacks with a 3-lb. hammer. The nut turned, and I was a happy guy. Thanks to all for your helpful posts!!

Glad you got it off. I use an adjustable wrench and position it in close relation to the crank arm which I use for leverage grabbing both the wrench and crank arm at the same time.
 
Glad you got it off. I use an adjustable wrench and position it in close relation to the crank arm which I use for leverage grabbing both the wrench and crank arm at the same time.
That's always worked for me too.
 
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