When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Draisenne project

#eBayPartner    Most Recent BUY IT NOW Items Listed on eBay
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
These could work- at least they look sturdy. They rims might be offset from the centerline of the hub but you could make that work. You'll need something better than tea cart wheels! Maybe steel wheelbarrow wheels? Some seem large enough, and the sound of a metal tire on pavement is part of the charm. If you are in farm country maybe some steel implement wheels, like a check row corn planter could work if you narrowed the rims?
 
Last edited:
These could work- at least they look sturdy. They rims might be offset from the centerline of the hub but you could make that work. You'll need something better than tea cart wheels! Maybe steel wheelbarrow wheels? Some seem large enough, and the sound of a metal tire on pavement is part of the charm. If you are in farm country maybe some steel implement wheels, like a check row corn planter could work if you narrowed the rims?
How about these? 30 inch diameter with steel rims-- https://www.ebay.com/itm/3846900990...d=link&campid=5335809022&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
 
Decorative and Chinese are the nails in the coffin for that set. I'd call them tea cart wheels. Vehicle wheels take a lot of stress, people have been making them for thousands of years and there are standards for what works. Softwoods have never been an option, unless you want to just take a spin around the block to see what a Laufmachine is like to satisfy your curiosity. 30" is a little big for your project. There were and are real road wheels made from around 14- 24" diameter that could work for a draisienne, some wood, some steel, and some spoked bicycle moped and motorcycle wheels. I have a barely functional blacksmith made velocipede and the steel tire sound is one of the best things about it. Scout out what you can find locally! The cheap option could be wrapping a 3/16" steel strip around some kid's bike front wheels, countersink some holes and bolt it in place as a tire, which could give you a working prototype. Disguise the wire spokes with a Flintstones wood wheel cover? The wood rims and spokes DO ride differently. I was reading about velocipedes in the 1980s and wondering what they would feel like to ride and when I finally got my crude veteran on the road I was feeling "yeah, now I get it". It's different, and the front wheel drive is pretty nice when it works. Since you are on a budget, build something quick and cheap just to try it out. If you like it, dive in deeper later.
 
I have done a bit of work with early velocipedes and wooden wheels over the past few years. There are several things I see about these wheels you show here or those wheels affixed to that rocking chair. If you look at say, the Sterba website, at the early 1800s hobby horses, you will first notice how crude those wheels on some of those machines are; very crude, home made, toy like almost, and maybe that is part of where the name hobby horse comes in- although these machines were built back in the day as a means of transportation, they were to a degree regarded by most as kind of a novelty, and maybe not something you would go traveling many miles on (although as it is known, some certainly did). They were almost like a toy or gadget that more well-off people might have, and maybe that why they didn't catch on in Europe more than they did until the advent of actual functional bicycles, and far as I know, never in America.

Regarding those wheels you have considered, I think they may actually work, but you will have to do a lot of improvements to them, however, you could possibly save a lot of money. If Stutzman built you a set of comparable wheels, you would be looking at the better part of $1000, and his work is so refined, it might not be quite what you are after if your looking to build a crude style hobby horse.

If you bought those $59 dollar wheels, keep this in mind. You would have to at a minimum, totally dismantle them. Inspect the existing joinery of the spokes, felloes, and hubs to ensure that the existing joinery is adequate to hold the wheel together. The hubs look a bit thin, and may need reinforced or perhaps new thicker hubs made, which you could do. The felloe sections which are currently held together and in place with metal fasteners; the metal fastners will have to be removed, and replaced with splines, mortised into place in the outer tire side section of the felloes, and then felloe bolts installed one or two per felloe through the tire. As for the steel tire; you will have to fabricate that by purchasing at a hardware store some 1/8 inch or so thick, steel bar stock, and then bending it into a perfect circle, welding together the joining edge. You will then have to hot set the tire correctly. You will need to fabricate a bushing for the hub, which can be done ideally with a bronze bushing, however steel pipe can be used, and then this, pressed into the center of the hub. Ideally, you would weld onto the pipe, a couple of short fins so that once the bushing is inserted into the hub, the bushing wont rotate in the hole. You will also need to make a couple of steel hub bands and hot set those onto the hub on either end to prevent splitting.

If I am not mistaken, when I sized and set a steel tire on an original wooden velocipede wheel, the measurement I used for tire size was, for the outer circumference of the wooden wheel felloes, to be two tenths of one percent larger, than the inner circumference of the steel tire. In other words, where the tire is only just barely smaller than the wooden outer part of the wheel, to where it just barely wont go on when cold, hence the need for hot setting. That steel tire is entirely what holds the wheel together

I know that sounds like a lot, but it is not really too bad, and it could be done, but that is really the bare minimum that would have to be done to make those an even more or less functional set of crude wheels. You would save a ton of money, since the extra steel parts I mentioned would not set you back but another $50 -$100 or so.
 
Last edited:
True, a functional wheel is not necessarily a pretty or elegant wheel! If you want to do a deep dive into 19th century (and earlier) methods, I highly recommend "The Wheelwrights Shop", a description of methods of work in a 200 year old shop in England as hand built products were replaced by factory made. Enough information that you could probably make a passable wheel if you put in the effort!
 
I checked my local craigslist and found these for 30.00. Steel, solid rubber tires and on the large side. But cheap!
WHEELS.jpg
 
Hobby horses / draisinnes can be fun ....

about 12 rode from Nancy France to Karlsruhe Germany in 2017 ..about 200 km
see video

proper fitting is trail and error .... if you ride it more than 50 feet you will want to fine tune saddle , arm rests etc for proper spacing ...one size does not fit all ( comfortably )

for safety we added rubber strips on the steel tires ....steel tires are very slippery on pavement .... the flat wheels are a bit strange acting whilst turning ( at speed) ..you'll figure it out ( hopefully)

after the ride ..you learn the love of pedals .

My example was a kit from Canada .... very nicely done ..spacing on everything is key ... but you will not know proper spacing till you ride it for many miles ..... I found riding was easier by using one foot , resting the other of the coasting peg ...then switching off ....for up hills you need both feet on ground ....coasting both feet on pegs ....enjoy the pull of gravity .



Cheers Carey

press photo of me.JPG


170530-bicycle-anniversary-celebration-03.jpg


parts on ground April.jpg


June 4th angle.jpg
 
I have done a bit of work with early velocipedes and wooden wheels over the past few years. There are several things I see about these wheels you show here or those wheels affixed to that rocking chair. If you look at say, the Sterba website, at the early 1800s hobby horses, you will first notice how crude those wheels on some of those machines are; very crude, home made, toy like almost, and maybe that is part of where the name hobby horse comes in- although these machines were built back in the day as a means of transportation, they were to a degree regarded by most as kind of a novelty, and maybe not something you would go traveling many miles on (although as it is known, some certainly did). They were almost like a toy or gadget that more well-off people might have, and maybe that why they didn't catch on in Europe more than they did until the advent of actual functional bicycles, and far as I know, never in America.

Regarding those wheels you have considered, I think they may actually work, but you will have to do a lot of improvements to them, however, you could possibly save a lot of money. If Stutzman built you a set of comparable wheels, you would be looking at the better part of $1000, and his work is so refined, it might not be quite what you are after if your looking to build a crude style hobby horse.

If you bought those $59 dollar wheels, keep this in mind. You would have to at a minimum, totally dismantle them. Inspect the existing joinery of the spokes, felloes, and hubs to ensure that the existing joinery is adequate to hold the wheel together. The hubs look a bit thin, and may need reinforced or perhaps new thicker hubs made, which you could do. The felloe sections which are currently held together and in place with metal fasteners; the metal fastners will have to be removed, and replaced with splines, mortised into place in the outer tire side section of the felloes, and then felloe bolts installed one or two per felloe through the tire. As for the steel tire; you will have to fabricate that by purchasing at a hardware store some 1/8 inch or so thick, steel bar stock, and then bending it into a perfect circle, welding together the joining edge. You will then have to hot set the tire correctly. You will need to fabricate a bushing for the hub, which can be done ideally with a bronze bushing, however steel pipe can be used, and then this, pressed into the center of the hub. Ideally, you would weld onto the pipe, a couple of short fins so that once the bushing is inserted into the hub, the bushing wont rotate in the hole. You will also need to make a couple of steel hub bands and hot set those onto the hub on either end to prevent splitting.

If I am not mistaken, when I sized and set a steel tire on an original wooden velocipede wheel, the measurement I used for tire size was, for the outer circumference of the wooden wheel felloes, to be two tenths of one percent larger, than the inner circumference of the steel tire. In other words, where the tire is only just barely smaller than the wooden outer part of the wheel, to where it just barely wont go on when cold, hence the need for hot setting. That steel tire is entirely what holds the wheel together

I know that sounds like a lot, but it is not really too bad, and it could be done, but that is really the bare minimum that would have to be done to make those an even more or less functional set of crude wheels. You would save a ton of money, since the extra steel parts I mentioned would not set you back but another $50 -$100 or so.
I appreciate the information. You have way overestimated my capabilities, but it's good to write for other researchers. I am amazed what some people can fabricate.
 
Back
Top