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Duro Tires...start the day with a bang
- Thread starter Sven
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fshbydesign.com
Wore out three sets of tires already!
Sorry... Total indicator runout
fshbydesign.com
Wore out three sets of tires already!
2mm (.078 inch) is too much. I would say that. 015 inch (.4mm) is acceptable.
Sven
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
SirMike1983
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
My experience is that Duro is economy quality with some quality control issues. The longevity of the tires can vary from batch-to-batch. The most recent Duro sets I owned were on two bikes repaired within a few months of each other. One set of tires discolored and cracked at the side walls within maybe 18 months or so, the other lasted longer. They were the same size and same color tire. The bicycles were stored and ridden similarly. One set of white walls stayed white and were fine 2+ years out, the other discolored and cracked within 18 months.
That isn't to say the tires were abjectly "bad", but it is to say they're of a basic, economy quality. I consider Kenda a step up from Duro, and then above that you have the better tires like Schwalbe, Continental, Panaracer, etc. The biggest "step up" in a tire you have is between the economy class and the mid-class tires. The newer Schwalbe white walls were a huge step up from Duro white walls on one of my bikes.
The Duro tubes are pretty thin. I've had more flats with Duro tubes than other tubes, though sometimes that's the luck of what you happen to hit. Most of my bikes have Forte tubes because they're decent and the local bike shop had lots in stock and on sale. I have Kenda tubes in a couple bikes - they're ok. Thorn-resistant tubes are indeed thicker, though I find they have a little "spongier" feel when you ride them. I have the thorn-resistant tubes on a couple bikes and they work well enough.
That isn't to say the tires were abjectly "bad", but it is to say they're of a basic, economy quality. I consider Kenda a step up from Duro, and then above that you have the better tires like Schwalbe, Continental, Panaracer, etc. The biggest "step up" in a tire you have is between the economy class and the mid-class tires. The newer Schwalbe white walls were a huge step up from Duro white walls on one of my bikes.
The Duro tubes are pretty thin. I've had more flats with Duro tubes than other tubes, though sometimes that's the luck of what you happen to hit. Most of my bikes have Forte tubes because they're decent and the local bike shop had lots in stock and on sale. I have Kenda tubes in a couple bikes - they're ok. Thorn-resistant tubes are indeed thicker, though I find they have a little "spongier" feel when you ride them. I have the thorn-resistant tubes on a couple bikes and they work well enough.
SKPC
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Nothing is really made very well or with the highest quality material any longer, not much anyway. I have problems with all tires no matter where they come from. tubes also. I guess it is because I am super critical of the way a tire runs because it is the most important connection to the road or dirt surface that the bike connects to! With the new foreign-made tubes, I find that the seams tend to fail on them, they have bad tolerances and are made of iffy material. In terms of tires, I want and need them to run totally true, and this is not easy no matter who makes them. Even when my rims are running super clean and true, the tires don't always seat perfectly...I am using silicone spray more and more when seating the bead, and even Conti's don't always seat right. It takes patience and a good number of tries before I am satisfied with the way the tire runs. Pressure up, de-pressure, adjust bead, re-pressure, back and forth until clean. Even though the factory molds for almost all of the tires made is exactly perfect, it doesn't mean the tire will seat perfectly true on the rim. It depends on a lot of variables, especially if your rim is not true as can be...
Autocycleplane
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Cheap tubes and tires just aren't worth it in my opinion - I ride all my vintage stuff quite a bit and probably a little harder/faster than I should sometimes. Having a blowout or bead coming off at speed could be catastrophic so saving a few bucks for hassles and possibly unsafe equipment doesn't make any sense to me. Even if it was a garage queen - who likes to fix flats?
Also curious about those getting frequent flats - are these thorn/glass punctures? Or pinch flats? Both can be reduced/eliminated with proper pressure, but if I lived in thorn country I would opt for the ride quality of a regular tube with a bit of sealant inside vs. the higher rolling resistance and ridiculous weight of "thorn proof" tubes.
Also curious about those getting frequent flats - are these thorn/glass punctures? Or pinch flats? Both can be reduced/eliminated with proper pressure, but if I lived in thorn country I would opt for the ride quality of a regular tube with a bit of sealant inside vs. the higher rolling resistance and ridiculous weight of "thorn proof" tubes.
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SKPC
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Yes, I run 50lbs in my ballooners set up for fast road rides. I do puncture on occation and mostly on glass and steel shards: sometimes thorns...
The more you are riding, the greater the chances of a puncture….and yes, I have begun to run small amounts of sealants in my tubes so I don't have to stop for 1/2 hour to mess with or fix small punctures. Just a few days ago, one of my bikes with no sealant forced me off to the side for a fixit session.
The more you are riding, the greater the chances of a puncture….and yes, I have begun to run small amounts of sealants in my tubes so I don't have to stop for 1/2 hour to mess with or fix small punctures. Just a few days ago, one of my bikes with no sealant forced me off to the side for a fixit session.
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