Early 40s Curved Seat Tube Elgin


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TR6SC

I live for the CABE
Jun 12, 2016
1,131
3,341
67
Eureka, CA
#1
There isn't anything about this project that will turn heads. I just thought it might be fun to go through the process of chronicling the steps. ALL ideas or input is encouraged. The idea is to keep the cost to a reasonable minimum. That being both in dollars and in labor. The frame is a beauty. That lovely curve encourages me to go for perfect, but as I said, that ain't happening. The metal is pock marked severely. The badge is beat. It doesn't show, but the curve of the badge no longer follows the curve of the head tube. Off it came.
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Scrub-a-dub-dub. That's it, and no more.
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A couple of passes with my favorite finish, Rustoleum Satin, or as it's also known as, (AKA) Satan!
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This is going take some time to dry. Once I can touch it, I'll put it in the walk-in water heater closet and let it bake.
 
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TR6SC

I live for the CABE
Jun 12, 2016
1,131
3,341
67
Eureka, CA
#3
There is a saying about watching the grass grow, or watching paint dry.
Guilty as charged. I started to lose my marbles. Couldn't help myself. Rustoleum just takes forever to dry, so....
I stripped the ratty badge and pulled out the Brasso! Mmmm, dats a nice!!
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GTs58

I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
Sep 2, 2012
10,378
9,061
Central Arizona
#4
I sure hope you carved your name in the seat tube before you Sataned it. :p Cool project.
 
Likes: TR6SC

Krakatoa

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Oct 12, 2016
3,563
5,508
Warren, RI, United States
#5
Nice project! I love these frames. Did you fish that one out of the bay?:D Once the paint is dry you could skim coat it with bondo and make it super smooth again, it sands pretty easily and is not that time consuming. Cue the people saying "Leave it pockmarked!":eek:

You'll probably have it all done before I remove the stem wedge that's been fused in the fork of my Western Flyer version!:mad:

N

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TR6SC

I live for the CABE
Jun 12, 2016
1,131
3,341
67
Eureka, CA
#6
Nice Flyer, Nate. I've done the Bondo thing. This Columbia Standard was from the bottom of the bay. Lots of pitting. The nickel was applied over numerous coats of copper that filled the pits. I thought that this time I would just leave it.
Anyway, Back to the head tube. Does the bolt come out? If so, drill a hole in the bottom of the forks and run a drift through the center of the wedge and drive the stem out like you mean it!
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Nice project! I love these frames. Did you fish that one out of the bay?:D Once the paint is dry you could skim coat it with bondo and make it super smooth again, it sands pretty easily and is not that time consuming. Cue the people saying "Leave it pockmarked!":eek:

You'll probably have it all done before I remove the stem wedge that's been fused in the fork of my Western Flyer version!:mad:

N

View attachment 461085

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Krakatoa

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Oct 12, 2016
3,563
5,508
Warren, RI, United States
#7
Wow, cool spoon brake setup on that one!

Good idea on the hole & drift idea. Right now there is just a teensy hole in the bottom of the fork. The real problem was the guy I bought the bike from had the habit of 'losing' stem wedges down the hole in his bikes as he'd never heard of PB Blaster. His solution was to stuff a wad of paper towel in the tube and put another stem in!!:confused: One of the other bikes had Civil War cannon load of stem wedges and paper towel wads in it!!o_O
 
Likes: TR6SC

TR6SC

I live for the CABE
Jun 12, 2016
1,131
3,341
67
Eureka, CA
#8
Wow, cool spoon brake setup on that one!

Good idea on the hole & drift idea. Right now there is just a teensy hole in the bottom of the fork. The real problem was the guy I bought the bike from had the habit of 'losing' stem wedges down the hole in his bikes as he'd never heard of PB Blaster. His solution was to stuff a wad of paper towel in the tube and put another stem in!!:confused: One of the other bikes had Civil War cannon load of stem wedges and paper towel wads in it!!o_O
Drill that puppy. Drive the SOB out!
 

TR6SC

I live for the CABE
Jun 12, 2016
1,131
3,341
67
Eureka, CA
#11
While the paint is hardening, I thought it would be a good time to bead blast the seat pan and springs to get the seat ready to paint. Lots of rust.
I couldn't get it all so I got some threaded rod and a few nuts.
A large roach clip allowed me to thread the nuts onto the rod inside the springs. A little stretching allowed the nuts to get wider and wider on the rod.
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TR6SC

I live for the CABE
Jun 12, 2016
1,131
3,341
67
Eureka, CA
#12
The Beast is coming together. The gearing is 24/11x26=57 inch wheel. Perfect for this geezer! I'm thinking of some Ape Hangers in the 19 inch range. Too tall?
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ND blackouts front and rear.
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The aftermarket Schwinn forks were a bit long for the the steering tube, so I made a spacer to take up the slack. My first try came out wrong, so I put it on the bottom. I'll pull it off if I go with fenders.
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Anybody know what this guard is from?
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TR6SC

I live for the CABE
Jun 12, 2016
1,131
3,341
67
Eureka, CA
#16
Wasn't planning on fenders, but I needed a mounting place for the Winged Wheel ornament.
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I found a pair of jeweled pedals and a KOBASTAND. It's a Japanese copy of the old arc side stands on Chinese Roadsters. Chairman Mao revived the bike industry in China with the Flying Pigeon. It was a copy of the good old English Roadster. More than 500,000,000 have been made. The world's biggest selling vehicle. Honda's Super Cub comes in second with 60,000,000 units.
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View attachment 645074
Here are a couple more off the net.
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TR6SC

I live for the CABE
Jun 12, 2016
1,131
3,341
67
Eureka, CA
#18
Finally got this Elgin close to done. The Banana went on last year and feels comfy. So do the Ape Hangers.
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This was today's rainy day project, a Troxel reflector and a Watsonville, California plate from the same period as the bike.
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Anybody know of a 3/4 26" duckbill rear fender to copy a Sting-Ray?
 

gkeep

Wore out three sets of tires already!
Jun 11, 2014
566
1,122
Alameda, CA
#20
I'll keep an eye out for that rear fender. Does it have to be vintage or would 80s be old enough? ;)
 

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