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Electric Cycle Truck

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In this "special application" it might help your axle length problem to remove the "Pre-War" (axle pivot) kickstand and replace it with a "Post War" (fork bung pivot) style stand. It would not be very difficult to fabricate two threaded bungs and weld them to the fork legs to mount the later style stand. It would still work exactly the same way but be a better fit with the existing motor drive axle.

Does this motor installation have anything that "keys the axle" to the fork? Anything like Sturmey Archer did with their flat sided axles and "non-turn" washers? All the internal planetary geared hubs had some means of controlling the axle torque rotation.

John
The hub axle is flat sided. With the proper fork slots mod it fits snugly.
 
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Hi JD,

Please give a performance report after the time you logged a Memory Lane and since you have gotten back home. Very nice build, I love the Peoples Drug Store sign you installed. This will be a consideration for my CWC cycle truck that hasn't sold and I previously haven't been inspired to build.
Brant, ML was a blast. I was excited to put faces with names.
As for the CT performance, it was mainly my only mode of mobility.
Those that took a spin on the CT thought it was a fun ride. And a cool build.
All of the installation of the kit and the needed mods was done by a good friend Nick that accompanied me at the show.
The new prosthetic gave me issues so I spent alot of time at our tables in a chair.
 
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The Hilltopper Sprinter axle is a two sided stud. After modification to a donor fork with slotted tangs the axle fits snuggly and no room fir spinning.
I agree that the nuts need to be checked for lightness.
As for speed and my leg issue, I don't need to go fast. However it is rated at 21mph

The factory 21 mph top speed rating was likely for a full-sized wheel. The small front wheel on your Cycle Truck application is like shifting the gear ratio into a lower gear. The result is the lower gear ratio will reduce the top speed, BUT it will then increase the axle torque. This "increased axle torque" really needs to be somehow transferred into the fork leg. The common way bicycle manufacturers transfer the torque is through an arm, like a brake arm on a coaster brake, or the Pork Chop arm on the Schwinn and Sturmey Archer drum brake hubs. It's possible to fabricate a "non-turn" washer or plate to key the axle to the fork.

I'm not sure just using an axle with flats that fit into the fork ends is a good long-term solution for this "high" axle torque. Going fast is not the issue, it's the high torque every time you start out slowly.

Then again, maybe I'm just wrong?

John
 
It was a necessity for sure. Walking wasn't my friend by Thursday.
I'm glad I finally got to see what all the hoopla was about.
My bride's had a hard go and I've got about 15 years behind her "4-wheeler." I admire what you are doing and I hope you can fight it 'til your last breath. I like your CT.
 
My bride has weak knees but she wants to ride with me on a 70s Schwinn tandem. We would need a longer electrical harness but you have inspired me.
 
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