When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Elgin Cardinal Stem Removal - Help Please

-
Any clearance between handlebar stem and upper fork tube has been closed off by rust. If I was there I would tie truss rod support up out of the way and try to remove as much penetrant as I could before heating. my 36 had a frozen stem. Only after Repeated cycles of heating and QUENCHING was I able to turn stem a fraction. What you should do is start slowly and learn what temp it has to be before you douse it with water. Try to turn the adjustment cone. But heat it up first. In my case.I had to heat that thing up too. When it turned it squeaked like it hadn't seen oil in 50 years. After finally getting stem out and adjustment cone off did idiscover the ball bearings had migrated out of races to drop alongside head tube cutting the living s*'√t out of it. Things got ugly for a while.
 
After 3 months in limbo it's back soaking and I'm going to try again to get the stem out.
I'm figuring the Browns play at 9:30 on Sunday and by 1 pm or so I should be plenty ready to attach the bike again.........
I've soaked it from top and bottom with Kroil, hit it with heat and nothing......other than frustration and getting really pissed.
Either I'm totally missing something / doing something wrong or this thing is super-seized.

Hope to update with good news......
 
After 3 months in limbo it's back soaking and I'm going to try again to get the stem out.
I'm figuring the Browns play at 9:30 on Sunday and by 1 pm or so I should be plenty ready to attach the bike again.........
I've soaked it from top and bottom with Kroil, hit it with heat and nothing......other than frustration and getting really pissed.
Either I'm totally missing something / doing something wrong or this thing is super-seized.

Hope to update with good news......


Here's an x-ray of what you're up against. Striking it from the bottom, while assembled, was a mistake because that drives the wedge even tighter than it already is. The proper approach is to first reinstall the bolt through the stem until it threads into the wedge below...but not quite all the way. With 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the bolt projecting above the surface, give it a good firm whack. That ought to drive wedge down, away from the stem body proper. You'll know things are correct when the bolt rattles around loosely, with the wedge suspended inside, like a bell clapper. Only then can the stem, bolt, and wedge be withdrawn as an assembly. Have you achieved this state?

Once you have accomplished this, the heat and the slippery stuff can begin to do their work. There are several ways to proceed, but I have a favorite. I like to wrap the stem in a rag and then clamp it, rather than the frame, in my bench vise. It doesn't have to be unreasonably snug...just enough to hold it firmly in place and prevent turning. Over tightening isn't needed and just causes blemishes. You can then use a length of 2x4, or other non-marring lever, to gently twist the now inverted fork from side-to-side, breaking the rusty choke-hold. Be sure to keep the lever as close to the crown as possible, otherwise you risk bending the fork blades. You want your energy focused as close to the steerer tube as you can get it--isolate those two offending parts. The concept--using the image below--is to separate the olive from the green, while leaving everything else unaffected.

Besides the Kroil, there are two other substances you are going to need--patience and resolve. Be sure you have plenty of both.




322px-Br_threadedheadset.png
 
BTW, I didn't see anyone mention this earlier, but there is SUPPOSED to be a locking ring covering those exposed threads above the truss rod bracket. It's gone, so this stem has been removed before.
 
I would say to turn the bike upside down and clamp the stem in a vise hard.take the 2x4 at the base of the fork use a 6 footer if it doesn't break loose,well maybe church would help .good luck
 
BTW, I didn't see anyone mention this earlier, but there is SUPPOSED to be a locking ring covering those exposed threads above the truss rod bracket. It's gone, so this stem has been removed before.
yes and it looks way to clean to be rust!!
 
A bicycle store trick is a product called Dri Slide. (Molybneum di sulfide- forgive the spelling)
Expensive but effective for this.
Shake it well, apply from top and bottom, inside and out. Try to hit every surface with a little.
It comes with a needle applicator.
You can then apply a rubber mallet message to disperse this stuff .
Let frame sit for a day or two and follow the stem removal steps .
I would have the frame horizontal. This stuff will stain.

Also, put some bars into the stem, the wider the better.
Put a front wheel into the fork. (junk is ok, just has to have structure)
Lock the front wheel between your legs and twist.
This will give you a great deal of leverage, and a better feel for
how things are proceeding as well.
 
Thanks to all for the recent info........!!!
I didn't get a chance to work on it last Sunday but will be this weekend.
Will update after I've tried s few of these new tips !!!
 
it looks nice now...would be great if you could just leave it in there, but not without the washer and lock nut...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top