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Emblem crank hardware....

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SKPC

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Learning much about Pierce/Emblem, Emblem/Pierce however you wish to say it. I have a late 20's/early 30's 28-er motobike I am trying to put back together. Below are the oversized-thread cones that Emblem used on their stiletto one-piece cranks. Not easy to find. If you have these cones, maybe set them aside as they are hard to come by. A bit larger diameter thread than std sized cone threads. The early ones (teens-20's) are flat tapered and then it seems in the late 20's/30's cones went to radius profiled for better rolling contact & less subject to wearing out. Emblem also came out with reversible cones(late20's -early 30's?) that you could flip them over when they wore out on one side and get twice the life out of them. Cranks and hardware back then seems to have been all over the place. No fun. Pics below to ID. Just for prosperity's sake.
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I see, these cones in the foreground of the photo are the ones that I needed to make my Pierce / Emblem 2 piece crank set work, the cones that came with it were no bueno, just the taper, not the radius as shown in the diagram for the bottom bracket, which helps keep the balls in place and not pop out into the bottom bracket..

Anyway, I found a one piece crank set that works on my Racer and I am pretty happy with how well it works. Someday I may find a proper Pierce / Emblem one piece. With that in mind, I will be selling the 2 piece set up as it is. I have the 5/16" balls for it, actually more than it takes, it takes 20 and I have 26 new g25 balls for it. I will be listing it soon.

Also, those 4 washers on the non drive side, don't even belong to this and won't be shipping with it unless someone needs some spacers for some reason.

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SKPC, cones look very nice; hope you got the ones you need, otherwise pictures are helpful.
I would not suggest setting the cones aside, but keep them with the crank and sprocket, since they look to the eye as typical old cones of a 16th smaller size and could easily be lost.
Your pierce/emblem Franken-cranks were cool looking too.
 
Yes, I am aware of your dilemma Piercer, and I feel your pain! Since my Franken-cranks came with the radiused cones, I will use the flat-sided ones that were on the better Emblem crank I was able to secure from Frosty: it also had some issues, but I worked out the slight bend yesterday with torch, long-bar and muscle. For those who are not aware of AS's franken-reference, I couldn't resist a few more images. Early in the day, they never threw anything away but instead were creative and fixed it. I can say they aren't straight at the pedal hole, but I still won't toss them as they are original to this frame.
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Notice the rounded lockwasher/dirt guard tab which cleanly fits the "scooped" crank slot.
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And the good crank in place.
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Piercer. I am getting the cones (all of them) re-surfaced to pull the pitting out completely. I will not need the radiused ones afterwards so will stay in touch with you regarding them. They may NOT be the ones you need, but you never know for sure until you try!.. SKPC
 
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cool beans.

I am pretty sure the crank set I have is for a Buffalo Pierce, and not an Angola.

With the cones, there is no way in the world, that I can figure out, that these will work together. The radius cones would secure the balls in place as well as the cones, so they would not drop through the cups.

I tried using the stock size 5/16" balls, 11/32" balls and 3/8" balls all to no avail. I ended up using a Westfield built crank set, the cups were 1/32" smaller, so I made some shims to wrap the cups and it works pretty well.
 
Hi,

My 1917 Columbia "Military Model" also had a repaired crank, I guess due to the relative unavailability of Imperial sized parts in France, it was the only real solution.

Judging by the corrosion on the repair, it must have been done a good while ago. How did these cranks get broken, was it a common problem?

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Best Regards,

Adrian
 
If bikes could talk we would all know the answer to that question! Flex cycles, crashes, car running over the bike, years of abuse, etc..
 
Yes, I am aware of your dilemma Piercer, and I feel your pain! Since my Franken-cranks came with the radiused cones..
View attachment 1028384
Piercer. I am getting the cones (all of them) re-surfaced to pull the pitting out completely. I will not need the radiused ones afterwards so will stay in touch with you regarding them. They may NOT be the ones you need, but you never know for sure until you try!.. SKPC


Pete,

I am probably, most definitely, going to need the cones for my Motor Bike, both radiused cones on it are pitted in spots, I will run it as is for now, I can always replace the balls again.

After tearing apart the hanger bracket on it, I know that the Racer had a one piece.

Have you also noticed that the Pierce/Emblem cranks and hanger (bottom) brackets are narrower than other bikes?

Almost every part is just a bit different than most other bicycles, making substitutions almost impossible. The steer tubes are 1-1/8" not 1", you already know about the head races and their little peculiarities.
 
As found Pierce/Emblem with oversized head and crank hardware. It also has 1-1/8" main tubes and yes, a narrower BB shell than normal. @piercer_99
Do you or anyone know if Emblem/Pierce mamufactured their own 2" spaced drive-pin cranksets and sprockets in the teens and 20's? Above ring is a 24t thick ring requiring wider chain. I've read here they were manufacturing most everything themselves in-house except wheels, pedals and accessories but not sure how long.
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A Pierce Angola motorbike similar to yours below.
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