Evapo Rust information

[Old is Gold]

Just picked up some Evapo Rust and looking for any tips on using it in general? Want to try to put the Springer front end parts and possibly the rear rack support bars and possibly the skip tooth chain in it for starters from my 1950 Roadmaster. I have never used the product so any help would be appreciated.

 

[buickmike]

I use it but keep an eye on it. I used it full strength. And in the past have used metal rescue.. I prefer the latter When solution gets darker you know it's working. But you can't leave it in there forever

 

[Old is Gold]

I guess that's kind of what I am looking for as far as information, how long to leave an item soaking? How do you know when enough is enough?

 

[Miq]

Completely submerge the part. A line will form where the part transitions from submerged to not submerged. Sometimes towels soaked in Evaporust can help cover hard to submerge parts. Make sure the towels stay wet.

Clean the part before you soak it or all the dirt will dissolve in the Evaporust too.

Rust will turn black from the process. It can be brushed or washed off with soap. I brush parts occasionally while they are soaking to see the progress. This is one way to see when they are done.

It’s expensive. Try to reclaim and reuse as much as you can. It will turn black as it is used up but lasts a long time.

Since it’s expensive, when you soak large parts, like wheels, you need to be creative and make soaking tubs that fit the parts closely. That way you only need a couple of gallons of Evaporust to cover them. I still needed some paper towels to keep the top of this wheel wet. Even with 2 gallons of Evaporust.

 

[Miq]

Parts look weird right out of the soak. You need to wash/brush them off to see the true results.

It works well and most stuff only needs a few hours of soaking. Just check it every couple of hours. I’ve noticed that the corrosion created by leaking batteries (like in a light or battery tube) takes longer to dissolve and scraping and brushing it helps.

 

[Old is Gold]

That is wonderful. Thank you for the pictures and the information. Great idea for doing the wheels if I decide to go that route. I did buy 4 gallons because they had it for $20 a gallon which I didn't think was too bad at my local Menards

 

[Old is Gold]

Could I soak the tank from the Roadmaster or would the evapo rust hurt the paint? Not that there is much paint left on it.

 

[Old is Gold]

Wouldn't mind doing the fenders also.

 

[Miq]

Paint is fine. If the metal under the paint is rusted, it will dispolve the rust and the paint will not adhere. But good paint is not effected by it.

That tank it not so bad, rust wise. Maybe just 0000 steel wool and WD40 first and see how it looks.

 

[bloo]

In my experience the paint will come off. There is rust under the paint whether you think there is or not. the Evaporust will find it and dissolve it and the paint will fall off. I have seen results, with pictures, in this forum, of clean painted parts just out of an Oxalic Acid bath that I am sure would have lost all their paint in Evaporust. Oxalic acid might turn red paint pink though, or so I'm told. I have only done small parts in Oxalic Acid, though for sure the paint loss seems less, even though the same caution about hidden rust applies. Evaporust is not acid and will not attack steel like the acid-based rust removers all do to some extent, so there's that. Evaporust will take zinc plating off. Get rid of any oil contamination before using Evaporust. Oil will block access to the rust. Also if you get oil in your Evaporust, the oil will fall out of the Evaporust on top of your parts and block or slow down the action. Evaporust needs to be warm, the warmer it is, the faster it works. Below 60F of so, the reaction stops completely. Pull your parts out occasionally to wash the black stuff off with soap/dteregent and water, and then put them back in. That speeds up the process.