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F Moser Forma

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Really lovely looking bike!

I recently built up one of these, got a mix of components from the 90s mostly Ultegra and some nice Mavic Classics Wheels I found on ebay.

I have to say I love it. The Deda Zero steel is really comfortable and soaks up the bumps, i also handles very nicely.

Not the lightest i think it came in a shade under 10kg but I'll take that in exchange for comfort.

All in all really pleased with it. Stumbled on your post whilst trying to find a bit of information on the frame.

I'll post a picture when I get a chance :)
 
Looking forward to seeing it - I love this bike. I rode it two weeks ago, chasing my friends on their tandem for 30 mi , which is a chore, especially downhill. (beat them by two blocks at the end).
The bike lunges up grades in high gears at a comfortable mash. It really has that thing they call planing, where frame flex launches you forward.
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/11/23/what-is-planing/
(My Viner cross frame does it, too)

I had some seatpost squat issues, which I solved with a Super Record quill post (Moser Leader requires a quill seatpost, but the Forma is not supposed to). Found a lucky and reasonable ebay buy.
aaaP1010005.jpg

Also recently replaced my floppy Ale toe straps, which kept turning around on me when I'd insert my foot, requiring me to slide my foot back and forth until they straightened out.
I bought the laminated Binda repros from Gran Bois and they are fantastic - foot goes in and out mindlessly now.
http://www.cyclesgrandbois.com/SHOP/binda_old.html
$62 delivered from japan, but should be the last I'll ever buy.
aaP1010001.jpg

btw, anybody looking for Modolo 919 anatomic hoods for non-aero brakes, Yellow Jersey has a good supply of them

ps - indigoba, if you haven't found this, here is a 1994 Moser catalog in a flicker album
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mrjohan/sets/72157625543647538/with/5239017520/
Note the Forma has a steel stem - my frame came with the original ITM steel stem, but I needed taller and went with Nitto.
(also note the Leader, Gara and Carbon models have quill seatpost and the Forma doesn't, but the addition really improved mine)
aaaaP1010005.jpg


Italian blog, Ray's history has a great abridged Moser library
http://www.raggidistoria.com/p/libreria.html
and his tee-shirt graphic is brilliant - I ordered one from across the pond.
http://raggidistoria.spreadshirt.it/

At least at the age of my bike, Mirage 8sp is the Campy gruppo they typically came with. My frame came with a well-ridden Mirage sealed-bearing bottom bracket, which I pedaled out the seals in a few hundred miles and replaced with SKF (who makes bearings for Campy, anyway)
33pp pdf http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/d/118842-2/1998+Campagnolo+Catalog.pdf
though they didn't come with the bike, my Moskva rims were also offered that year (and they look great)

had some other odds-and-ends Moser listings, but most are past - one was a complete bike listed in the UK for $1500.
From those, and my graphics, I've been able to date my Forma as a '98, likely the last year they made lugged steel
(TiG-welded Leader continued in steel for a few more years)
http://www.retrodicorsa.cc/Retro_di_Corsa/archive/Pages/Moser_Forma_Yellow.html

Also, if you like my Rivet saddle, Carradice has begun importing them to the UK
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rivet-shoprivet/?geoc=us
from Debra in California
http://rivetcycleworks.com/
They have developed a following among folks who want to replace their Brooks with a better fit
 
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My black Ale toeclip broke on my last ride - damn Italians.
hcdEiri.jpg


so I found the green anodized OS from Italy on ebay for 1/3 price of black OS - if I had the inkling, I'd replace the yellow Binda straps with white, but they're Binda and are here to stay.
Lights up the tire stripes, and I stashed a half-dozen of these tires on closeout.
qbvOQga.jpg
 
Decided to add to my old thread.
The frame, btw, which I paid $175 on ebay, is actually a DeRosa Primato with Moser graphics - quite a steal at my price. The DeRosa-marked frame would sell for a lot more than I have total in the bike.
Since my photo above, finally gave up on the Rivet saddle, and have been totally happy on a Brooks Swallow.
More changes I've made along the way, swapping the Shimano 600 RD I first used from my parts bin for the 2nd-generation Campy Chorus - Campy's SunTour copy, and with miles, IMO, the best RD ever made by anybody.
2HYt08Y.jpg
nb9sPuZ.jpg

Every Campy RD since Croce d'Aune requires a long-cable-pull shifter, and I solved that with the first Record/Chorus friction DT shifters - you can see the rear shifter has a larger sheave diameter to get the longer cable pull.

When I first found my used Record/Moskva clincher wheelset on ebay from Germany, I tried loose ceramic balls in the front hub, and at the same time let a bike shop rebuild the rear freehub, since they had the tool. The logic of ceramic balls (Si-N Gr5) is less the fact they're one-third the weight of steel, but are microscopically smoother than steel. You can find the loose balls cheap enough from vendors on ebay and Amazon.

What I've worked out about the wheelset, the hubs are the Record first "Ultra-drive" 8-sp from 1994-96.
vjIyASm.png

They show 3 different part numbers for the loose balls, I searched the part numbers and found wrong information on other bike forums - both the front hub bearing balls (RE008) and one side of the rear (RE004) are the same size 7/32" balls.
I've been rolling on them for over 5 years, and easily have 7000+ mi on them. BTW, this is the fastest wheelset I've ever ridden on any bike, including older Campy and Zeus hubs, and newer sealed bearing hubs, AC and Phil.

I was hearing a whir coming from the front hub, and decided it was time to look into it, expecting to find pieces of ceramic and wasted cups and cones.
Instead, all I found was white lithium grease turned to wax - the whir was the ceramic balls bouncing together.
Pristine race.
S40ob21.jpg

equally good cones and balls - these haven't been solvent-cleaned yet, just wiped down with Boeshield
cLeaNbk.jpg

Instead of using white lithium grease again, this time went to the same grease I use in my antique fly reels - Quantum Hot Sauce - it never turns to wax, even exposed to water - Zebco salt-spray tested it for the equivalent of decades.
nG9h0QU.jpg

You can do the best job final-adjusting front hub cones with the wheel in the fork
(though this shot is finished with dust caps back in place)
q6WPHGo.jpg

And since I can remove the freehub without disassembling it, I'm going to do a similar rebuild on the rear hub bearings sometime this winter.
 
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thanks - and the last good photo I took of the bike, sporting her winter bar bag for peeling and stuffing layers as the day warms, taken on a last-March bluebonnet greenway foray.

HIqm6mO.jpg

also due for a new handlebar wrap, which I have some white leather bar wrap stashed away
 
thanks - and the last good photo I took of the bike, sporting her winter bar bag for peeling and stuffing layers as the day warms, taken on a last-March bluebonnet greenway foray.

A very fine looking "Moser" indeed. You say that it's actually a De Rosa; were they building the lugged frames for Moser at that time? I love the fact that you have a quill post on that bike, what is the size? Many folks have modified the Leader seat tube to allow use of a collar clamp seat binder, but I think that takes a clean looking frame design and mucks it up a bit. Maybe your post will fit my Leader (HA!), I had a heck of a time finding a quill for it in the right size without breaking the bank. I'm glad you gave some feedback with your saddles through the years; it might not apply to my 140 lb body, but I had not really heard of (nor was I watching for) anything on the "Rivet" saddle. I've never ridden on one. Did it end up stretching too much like the Anatomica? It looks like a nice saddle, fairly similar to the "Swallow" except the center cut-out. I don't know your weight, but even I have noticed some these leather saddles with the cut out feel a little too "flexy". I've busted a fake "Swallow" ("cut down" Fujita "Belt" leather saddle) due to there not being enough material to maintain proper stiffness/support, especially on a used saddle. I now modify saddles to have those "tabs" extending from the sides and lacing them together to maintain stiffness and durability as well giving a means of adjustment due to stretching. I'll be breaking in a modified "Fake Brooks B.17" that has been cut like a "Swallow" model, but with the "tabs". Looks almost like the real thing; I could slap a "Brooks" badge on it and most folks wouldn't know. I got it as an extra on a bike purchase a few years back so I wasn't too concerned about messing it up. That bike came with a new real Brooks saddle anyways.
So good to see another "old" steel frame out there still going strong and looking good doing it!
 
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