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There was someone on Facebook that I saw last week that is making a bunch right now. I neglected to get his name. It might’ve been on the old bikes group.
While the fender rollers and English Wheels look very simple and sometimes crude, they need to be a pretty high precision tool. The wheels need to be turned to be smooth and very round, as in no run out. The sealed bearings need to be precise. You need to have the roller wheels be able to be able to adjust against each other and still turn freely, with no run out. Even if you have high quality roller wheels/bearings, if the supporting frame and adjusting arm have any play (or distortion under pressure) it will just defeat the quality of the rollers and bearings. Based on my understanding from talking with people that own the "cheap quality" imported English Wheels (HF, Summit Racing, Jeg's, Eastwood, etc.) the flexible "C" frames cause a lot to be desired. You will find many U-Tube videos on how to modify the cheap Imported English Wheel frames to make them at least useable.
My conclusion is to buy one of the really nice roller wheel kits I see on the net and build your own "C" frame to fit your "distance reach" needs.
@SJ_BIKER thank you for an interesting topic and sharing your photos.
There was someone on Facebook that I saw last week that is making a bunch right now. I neglected to get his name. It might’ve been on the old bikes group.
Interesting concept, but it looks like the fenders weren't cleaned in that one before rolling(?). I'd worry about the wheel pulling grit on the paint and scratching.
The top wheel could be a "hard density" urethane skateboard wheel. The bottom wheel needs to have a crown shape. Agree that the fender needs to be spotless on both sides before you start working the metal.
View attachment 1909010
After using my fingernail across the top side ...it doesn't reveal a deep gouge as I originally thought...I'm sure a Good polisher can make it better.its really more of a scratch.
The first step in polishing a scratch, is not polishing, it's sanding the "highs" and "picking up" the lows. Start your sanding with a 320 grit DA and work the scratches with progressively finer grits. You can do professional polishing quality work in your home shop; it just takes time no matter who does the actual work.
Polishing just makes flat and straight metal shine. If you start by polishing (without the sanding first), you will just end up with a shiny scratch, usually full of black polishing compound.
EXAMPLE #10
This spot was an attempt by the previous owner to fix the damage from the underside with some sort of pick hammer. Quick sanding revealed the high spots. So light rolling here.
Cleaned off the surface and dusted the rollers and added more pressure on the dial to continue rolling out imperfections. Made sure to check for gunk in the valleys as that tiny amount can prevent flat a surface. More sanding here and looked like it's done for now.
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