Frame crack - 1939 Viking (Columbia / Westfield) - Least bad solution?

[cbustapeck]

Yesterday, I noticed that there was a crack about halfway around the top tube, where it meets the seat tube, on my 1939 Viking (or Columbia, or a couple other brands, I think, built by Westfield). (Note: I'm not putting anything on the seller on this. He has been extremely helpful with all of the challenges I have dealt with this bike. I only just noticed the crack after spending plenty of time cleaning and polishing the bike, so I am sure that he didn't see it. )

I'm looking for thoughts as to what to do. I ride all my bikes, so it needs to be rideable. Further, I'd like to keep it as original as possible.

I see several options:

1. Do nothing. If it gets worse, address it then.
2. Be proactive and use some sort of strong epoxy.
3. Be proactive and have it welded.

I appreciate any thoughts or other options that I might consider.

 

[1817cent]

I would either not ride it or get it welded. After breaking my leg in a bike accident, i take no chances.

 

[Archie Sturmer]

Looks like an auxiliary truss tube; early manufacturer claimed that they were unnecessary, just there for the "stylishness".
Perhaps the use of an extra-long Wald 13/16" seat post, that would extend well past the crack would provide more peace of mind.

<edit> Never mind the above, if it is an already weaker step-through frame.
1) What to do with a girl's frame; 2) that is also damaged; and 3) one does have a garden.

 

[1motime]

It is a crack and it is spreading into the tube itself. Any more stress and it will split and only be a much larger and more complicate repair. Weld it!

 

[Roger Henning]

If it was mine I would braze it rather than weld it. Roger

 

[1motime]

If it was mine I would braze it rather than weld it. Roger

Depends how it was done originally. Braze if brazed before. Weld if it was welded

 

[all riders]

I think the only braze that wouldn't instantly crack would be a fillet braze with real mass-like on a Schwinn. It would stick out like a sore thumb. Your best bet will be to have it TIG welded. A good welder could both ensure a fully fixed crack and also could manipulate the bead to match the small raised welds currently present. Caveat: The steel is aged and could be porous and difficult to clean well enough for tig welding. I think MIG fix is out of the question unless completely desperate. (It could work. You run the risk of burning through the metal and would have a fair amount of file work to do) I have 26 years as a metal worker/welder. I'm sure there are others on here, more expert than me. I hope they chime in. Good Luck

 

[bikecrazy]

I’m not trying to step on anyone’s toes, but imho the best way would be to grind out all the metal adjacent to the crack (v grove ) and mig weld the tube. Any excess weld can be dressed off with a file. My guess is if you take it to a shop, they will recommend just what I said.

 

[Balloonoob]

Bummer man. Finding a crack on your new old bike sure sucks. Many of us know just how bad from experience.

 

[all riders]

The problem is heat control and thin metal--the exact problem that TIG is meant to overcome. There is no need to v groove since penetration isn't an issue. The issue is that controlling the heat of a continuous weld is hard as the heat builds up until blowout. you can start and stop but each start is a "cold weld". I agree that it can be done, but I think I'de have someone try to Tig it first---they would know immediately if it would work, and if not, MIG it and get out the file