Jeff54
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
2 whole years of patience is all it took, lol. Whelp W-D 40 too. The last stem I dealt with was a 68 Schwinn super sport's fancy French aluminum 'Death Stem' , it only took 1 year but, it was already broken so, it didn't matter that I beat on it from time to time.
I'd sprayed the trek regularly, even rode it frequently with the bolt loose so that; if and when it started, providing I didn't end up killing myself, I'd be ready. Besides, I expected that once the electrolysis and etching began to break free it would still be tight enough to hold. Not to leave out, while I take it out for quick sprints, I don't go far, only within my small neighborhood as otherwise traffic is way too crazy round here. I.E. riding with the stem bolt loose ain't somtin I recommend. Albeit, I thought doing so would help without needing to beat it..
A few days ago, went out to ride it and what ya know it had started. It must have got it loose the previous time I'd ridden it, moved when putting away in dark, b/c it was sitting there already moved. Yet also still plenty, Mucho tight but, finally, movable .
The last time I'd tried was just a week or two ago, even gave it a few smacks with rubber mallet. And, which may have helped was a bit of dousing with fine machine oil, and Nope! it wasn't going anywhere. I was still riding with loose bolt plus, IDK when but, the chinch nut had dropped some time ago. . However, perhaps the machine oil was what, after a period of WD, was what could have sped its loosening b/c W-D does dry, while the oil may have kept what W-D did, wet long enough to break loose.
I wanted it out for 3 reasons, 1. The angle I set my handle bars caused scratches on top bar. 2. Duh, ya gotta perform some maintenance on em, at least every 10 years, eh?, ya know. [grin] 3> keep original parts? YUP!
Downside; the neck of stem that is/was unseen has bunches of squiggly lines forever embedded although not affecting the overall usefulness of old bike part. I mean, while these bikes are still kick but X country machines, I ain't going any further than my neighborhood. But seeing all the etching 1st hand, squiggly horizontal lines etched into it, it's a no brainer as to why it was NOT coming out except to destroy or get it loose. .
So, there you have it, Squirt, squirt, rubber mallet smack from time to time, keep doing it occasionally, potentially add in some machine oil after you've given the W-D lots of time to do its job, for as long as your patience doesn't wear thin. and wal-la!
Fork tube is now, steal bottle brushed clean of rust, grit, oil and whatever then dried. the stem, bolt and chinch nut fairly polished and all coated with marine grease. "Marine grease' Take that Electrolysis! IDK why they're not coated to begin with.
Disclaimer: ride with loose stem bolt at your own risk!
...
I'd sprayed the trek regularly, even rode it frequently with the bolt loose so that; if and when it started, providing I didn't end up killing myself, I'd be ready. Besides, I expected that once the electrolysis and etching began to break free it would still be tight enough to hold. Not to leave out, while I take it out for quick sprints, I don't go far, only within my small neighborhood as otherwise traffic is way too crazy round here. I.E. riding with the stem bolt loose ain't somtin I recommend. Albeit, I thought doing so would help without needing to beat it..
A few days ago, went out to ride it and what ya know it had started. It must have got it loose the previous time I'd ridden it, moved when putting away in dark, b/c it was sitting there already moved. Yet also still plenty, Mucho tight but, finally, movable .
The last time I'd tried was just a week or two ago, even gave it a few smacks with rubber mallet. And, which may have helped was a bit of dousing with fine machine oil, and Nope! it wasn't going anywhere. I was still riding with loose bolt plus, IDK when but, the chinch nut had dropped some time ago. . However, perhaps the machine oil was what, after a period of WD, was what could have sped its loosening b/c W-D does dry, while the oil may have kept what W-D did, wet long enough to break loose.
I wanted it out for 3 reasons, 1. The angle I set my handle bars caused scratches on top bar. 2. Duh, ya gotta perform some maintenance on em, at least every 10 years, eh?, ya know. [grin] 3> keep original parts? YUP!
Downside; the neck of stem that is/was unseen has bunches of squiggly lines forever embedded although not affecting the overall usefulness of old bike part. I mean, while these bikes are still kick but X country machines, I ain't going any further than my neighborhood. But seeing all the etching 1st hand, squiggly horizontal lines etched into it, it's a no brainer as to why it was NOT coming out except to destroy or get it loose. .
So, there you have it, Squirt, squirt, rubber mallet smack from time to time, keep doing it occasionally, potentially add in some machine oil after you've given the W-D lots of time to do its job, for as long as your patience doesn't wear thin. and wal-la!
Fork tube is now, steal bottle brushed clean of rust, grit, oil and whatever then dried. the stem, bolt and chinch nut fairly polished and all coated with marine grease. "Marine grease' Take that Electrolysis! IDK why they're not coated to begin with.
Disclaimer: ride with loose stem bolt at your own risk!
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