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Good color combo suggestions?

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I like the gun metal and black with maybe some red in it as well.

Not much red here except the vestigial primer, but here's something like that:
Westie2.jpg


And does anyone have tips on getting the paint off if the little crevices that come along? Most of the main portions are already down to bare metal but where the tubes meet and the bb area are becoming a pita. Do I just need to fold the sand paper and tough it out?? Thanks in advance

I've got no secrets; it's tough-it-out for me. When the going gets tough, apply more beer.
 
Nice bike!

I like the almost root beer brown and those wheels are just what I was speaking of. And those old school drop bars are the bees knees! And will keep the beer tip in mind I've gone to strictly 22 ozers for bicycle tinkering hahaha
 
I like the almost root beer brown and those wheels are just what I was speaking of. And those old school drop bars are the bees knees! And will keep the beer tip in mind I've gone to strictly 22 ozers for bicycle tinkering hahaha

Thanks; I like it too -- very fun to ride even if heavy. The bars are Torrington North Roads from a Schwinn-built Mead mounted on a Nitto Technomic stem. Wheels are 700c Velocity P-35 Blunts and some Vredestein 47-622 tires our guy Ronald here shipped me. This project was based on the 22 oz. platform as well.
 
Really nice job on that bike Ranger Dan, great background too. Kind of stumbled onto this color combo from looking at old train stations. Call it vintage custom, 1935 Westfield w/ 40's ? springer. Rustoleum rattle, fossil, dark taupe ( barely noticeable ) & red wine. I'm still on the 12oz. platform, just have to use a lot more.
 

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For stencils, if I work from freehand, I draw it out, then put the paper over masking tape that's been laid out on no-stick paper, cut the part out that I want, and use the tape as a mask. Another thing to do is decals on inkjet paper (White backing—the clear backing disappears. This means you have to be a little clever when cutting each letter, leaving them attached to each other by a small piece to hold the spacing and orientation together for application. Once they're on, the attaching piece can be easily removed with very light pressure from a knife.). The decals have to be clear coated before the water dip and should be after application to protect them and further secure them. Since you can get all kinds of fonts online, it makes fancy lettering (or paintings or photos) much easier.
 
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Wow what a restore!! Some people would have seen that old frame and not thought twice about scrapping it but it looks awesome!! In also thinking those colors just swapped. And I like the idea of the masking tape I appreciate the advice I will definitely use that method as I'm still a beginner for sure haha.
 
color

COLOR? Just leave it the original Patina of what is on it. Making a Rat does not come out of a Spray Can
 
COLOR? Just leave it the original Patina of what is on it. Making a Rat does not come out of a Spray Can

I have four other patina bikes. This one was owned by a bum I swear haha. It was painted while still together so overspray was a b****. And it's from the 70s so not old enough for me to want to restore og paint. But anyways I went with black and cream. I'm waiting on black pistol grips and new motorcycle type tires. But thanks all for the suggestions! Here it is
IXbRIY0-1.jpg

m0c1XqX-1.jpg

xt2bFfW-1.jpg

nGXKHFu-1.jpg

8taNCLL-1.jpg
 
Whats left

I still have the rear book rack which I'm thinking I will put back on and throw a stuffed rat in it like a trap haha. And I need to fine tune my stencil "filthy rat". I am no fan of repainting og paint but this thing was abused haha so I hope you guys like what I did with it!! Also I plan on finding a light for the front as well but I kinda like the minimalist approach thus far. This is my first (attempt) at painting.
 
I have three frames in bare steel but have not clear-coated any of them, and haven't found a need to. After a bit of fine sanding, none of them are skimming over with rust much at all since the paint was first removed. If they get wet, a wipe-down prevents oxidation, but if I forget, a quick pass with a sanding sponge takes off any incipient rust. If you live on a sea coast, however, I don't think this would suffice.


Hey to Rrogers1992 ... in the process of preserving my 1917 Merk .. disassembled the machine ...
washed it well with baby shampoo .. rinsed it to the point my OCD was obvious to the neighbors ... let it dry ...
then, soft-rag washed it with denatured alcohol .. let it dry.

Went over the whole thing with a brass-oxidizer .. let it sit for a coupla hours .. water and mild-soap wash again ...
rinsed well. Followed by the denatured alcohol procedure. The brass-oxidizer serves to darken-down any steel that
is too shiny for the overall appearance of the machine.

Used a fizz can of Krylon Clear MATTE Spray, everywhere but the internals. 5 to 7 coats ... 12 to 16 inches
from target. Allowed 15 minits dry time between coats.

Buttoned it up the following morning.


Have also found that most any vinyl-sign business can cut stencils for you that have a low-adhesion feature.

Here are some fotos of the Merk at MLC - Spring 2014 .....


1917 FM chassis display  MLC  Spring 2014.jpg


1917  FM  001.jpg


1917  FM  002.jpg


1917  FM  004.jpg


1917  FM  005.jpg


1917  FM  006.jpg


1917  FM   003.jpg


photo%203.jpg


photo 4.JPG


My 1917 FM at Links & Kinks Show (Fairborn, Oh., 6/2014) Got the fenders finished .. just like frame / fork. They are in storage.



.................. patric



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