Head Badge screws

[Rusty Klunker]

As for my mechanical ability, I can tell you I laced my first wheel when I was about 10. No youtube, no computers, no books. I can tell you how that came about. We were just starting to appreciate our rides,.. washing and waxing them. Well, I got this brilliant Idea to take a wheel apart. Clean and polish the rim spokes and hub with a brillo pad. Wax every thing and put it back together. I had a front wheel to look at, no spoke wrench just a screwdriver. Trued it up on the bike,... patted my self on the back... I did this, wasn't that hard. ... Then I went to put air in that 20 inch stingray tire. Wasn't easy with the spokes crossed over the stem. Everyone was amazed at what I had done... nobody noticed what was wrong. It stayed that way for a while... being without wheels for a couple days wasn't fun. So yeah, I've been tinkering with things for a looong time, and I work with my hands. But those screws,... I cant get them out!

 

[Rusty Klunker]

This badge didn't really matter but I didn't want to destroy it. Now a couple of the others have the build date stamped in them, and I'd like to save them.

 

[Sven]

You accomplished your mission.

Its not your mechanical aptitude, I question. Its more of a curiosity thing for me, is why these screws wouldn't come out.

 

[GTs58]

I do the tapping method also. But after one of my attempts with a small screwdriver with a small diameter toy sized handle, I said this is BS. I sacrificed a larger screwdriver (Harbor Freight) with a good size handle and wider blade than the width of the screw head. Ground down the blade to fit tight in a undamaged slot, grabbed the handle tight and put turning pressure on it. Then I increase the turning pressure just as the hammer head hit the screwdriver handle, and with a real hammer, not a little rubber or hard plastic hammer. These are sheet metal screws and maybe one and a half threads are all that's holding it in.

 

[A.S.BOLTNUT]

Disclaimer; my method dosent work for everyone, you have to be highly Skilled, Patient, and have many years of handling tools as if they were Surgical Instruments.

 

[mr.cycleplane]

we'll chalk this up to experience-trial and error-experimentation-something along those lines! whatever it takes!

 

[the tinker]

Schwinn 60's badges go for ten cents each. Rip the thing off and use a vice grip to turn the screws out and be done with it.

 

[Vicious Cycle]

Schwinn 60's badges go for ten cents each. Rip the thing off and use a vice grip to turn the screws out and be done with it.

I have had good luck, with stubborn screws, using a impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer to tighten or loosen, that takes a 3/8" drive socket) using a custom ground tip to fit the screw exactly. also a fan of Kroil penetrating oil.
Now if I could find a source of screws that are 3/16"- 1/4" long instead of 1/8" to reach the fresh meat in the hole

 

[Rivnut]

I've had luck removing rivets by sticking a solid 7/8" bar down the head tube and sitting the edge of the bar on the tip of the rivet. The side of the bar rests against the head tube. A couple of smacks with a good sized ball pen hammer and the rivet will move enough to get a pair of side cutter pliers on the rivet head and remove it. Haven't run into a head screw yet that I couldn't get a grip on with a good screwdriver. The iron bar might work on a screw with a boogered up head.

 

[GTs58]

I have had good luck, with stubborn screws, using a impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer to tighten or loosen, that takes a 3/8" drive socket) using a custom ground tip to fit the screw exactly. also a fan of Kroil penetrating oil.
Now if I could find a source of screws that are 3/16"- 1/4" long instead of 1/8" to reach the fresh meat in the hole

They are #2 round-head type "B" sheet metal screws.

Slotted, Steel Zinc

www.valuefastener.com