TINYuproar
Finally riding a big boys bike
Made some mods to my rat rod. Found a 1936 Monark Silver King aluminum frame. But the guy who sold it to me (on eBay) didn't tell me the seat post and every other steel component was frozen solid (like it probably sat outside for the past 60 years). I got everything loose but the post. So I was hoping maybe you would have some insight on it. But this one is unique, (and a b**ch to repair/replace) The 7 post is proprietary and works like the handlebar stem, pulling a wedge up the seat tube with a bolt to apply internal lateral pressure. Problem is, I tried oiling it for the past 6 days. Wouldn't budge. Used PB Blaster for the following 4 days. Still not moving. I'm so afraid to vice and twist because the frame is 1930s lugged aluminum. I really don't know its overall strength. Last, I beat it with a hammer. This was a mistake, which taught me that A) It's still not going to move and B) The structural integrity of this proprietary 7 post is so compromised by the rust that the hammer bent it. Honestly, it might've been bent already and I didn't notice. The bolt is out and I can hear the wedge inside the frame is loose. I don't really want to torch it (because aluminum frame). Any further suggestions? I'd really like to try to salvage the post as I've found through research that it's the only year monark made it that way and my receiving it (because the seller couldn't remove it) was technically fortunate, but only if I don't have to cut it off and drill it out.
Related: There's a steel pin, which I've learned through a forum where someone was replacing a broken down tube on an SK frame identical to mine, that is the pin that holds the seat tube into the seat post frame lug. It's also unremovable because of rust. Does this pin also hold the 7 post in place? Why the heck didn't monark just use a bolt here?
Another thing the seller didn't mention was a giant glob "repair" where the lug meets the down tube. This fortunately got me $100 off the frame price, putting it at a cool $280 for me. But, first, how strong are SK frames in the first place? Are there any serious or frequent integrity issues? Can anyone tell me how the frame is actually held together? Is it with set screws? How dangerous is riding this frame with this repair? Can I grind it down and buff out? Is there a missing set screw that I'm not aware of in this location? I just don't want to be hauling tail on this thing and do a pavement faceplant.
KEYS! Every locksmith in my city scratches their head at the tumblr of this bike. I really want a key to make the fork lock work. Does anyone A) Have a key that can be re-cut, or preferably blank? B) Have a resource for a locksmith that doesn't suck? I would really prefer not to have to ship the frame to get a key made. Authentic/Era original keys would be highly preferable. Also, even if someone can tell me info that might help local locksmiths, that would be super great as well. I've read info that there's supposed to be a key code somewhere near the tumbler, but can't find anything of that nature.
Hardware/chain tensioners.
My chain tensioners were rusted solid (and ruined) just like everything else. I managed to wire brush them and get them removed just enough to not damage the internal threads of the dropouts. But...they are different lengths and seem to be of different thread pitches. Why would there be different thread pitches on the same bike? No hardware store, ACE/Depot or otherwise, can come up with a modern equivalent. So, I would love it if you all had info related to this and if one of you could sell me relevant NOS tensioners. Also, I'm trying to replace all steel components with stainless or titanium. Nobody seems to have a 7 post bolt close to mine in stainless. Advice would be appreciated on this. What are the standard diameters of the crank housing and headset housing? I would love to replace the grease bearing system on both with sealed bearing systems. I want every modern mechanical thing I can pack into this while preserving the rat rod/old school look and feel of the bike.
Tensioner dimensions (closest guesses based on thread testers at hardware store) I would really prefer they be around 2.5" in length. I'm willing to ship tensioners if someone can determine with precision what replacement tensioners would be necessary.
Short
1/4-28
Long?
1/4-20
Seat post bolt dimensions:
5/16"
24 thread pitch
5" length
Stainless preferred
Was there a kickstand made for these frames that was not a drop stand?
Thanks in advance for any helpful info!
See all relevant attached photos.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Related: There's a steel pin, which I've learned through a forum where someone was replacing a broken down tube on an SK frame identical to mine, that is the pin that holds the seat tube into the seat post frame lug. It's also unremovable because of rust. Does this pin also hold the 7 post in place? Why the heck didn't monark just use a bolt here?
Another thing the seller didn't mention was a giant glob "repair" where the lug meets the down tube. This fortunately got me $100 off the frame price, putting it at a cool $280 for me. But, first, how strong are SK frames in the first place? Are there any serious or frequent integrity issues? Can anyone tell me how the frame is actually held together? Is it with set screws? How dangerous is riding this frame with this repair? Can I grind it down and buff out? Is there a missing set screw that I'm not aware of in this location? I just don't want to be hauling tail on this thing and do a pavement faceplant.
KEYS! Every locksmith in my city scratches their head at the tumblr of this bike. I really want a key to make the fork lock work. Does anyone A) Have a key that can be re-cut, or preferably blank? B) Have a resource for a locksmith that doesn't suck? I would really prefer not to have to ship the frame to get a key made. Authentic/Era original keys would be highly preferable. Also, even if someone can tell me info that might help local locksmiths, that would be super great as well. I've read info that there's supposed to be a key code somewhere near the tumbler, but can't find anything of that nature.
Hardware/chain tensioners.
My chain tensioners were rusted solid (and ruined) just like everything else. I managed to wire brush them and get them removed just enough to not damage the internal threads of the dropouts. But...they are different lengths and seem to be of different thread pitches. Why would there be different thread pitches on the same bike? No hardware store, ACE/Depot or otherwise, can come up with a modern equivalent. So, I would love it if you all had info related to this and if one of you could sell me relevant NOS tensioners. Also, I'm trying to replace all steel components with stainless or titanium. Nobody seems to have a 7 post bolt close to mine in stainless. Advice would be appreciated on this. What are the standard diameters of the crank housing and headset housing? I would love to replace the grease bearing system on both with sealed bearing systems. I want every modern mechanical thing I can pack into this while preserving the rat rod/old school look and feel of the bike.
Tensioner dimensions (closest guesses based on thread testers at hardware store) I would really prefer they be around 2.5" in length. I'm willing to ship tensioners if someone can determine with precision what replacement tensioners would be necessary.
Short
1/4-28
Long?
1/4-20
Seat post bolt dimensions:
5/16"
24 thread pitch
5" length
Stainless preferred
Was there a kickstand made for these frames that was not a drop stand?
Thanks in advance for any helpful info!
See all relevant attached photos.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
