Help needed to diagnose New Departure Coaster brake hub issues

[J-wagon]

After doing some basic research - it seems to be what's commonly called "ghost pedaling". Also, I can move the pedals / and in effect the rear cog more than a 1/2 a turn.

For sure hub needs to be taken apart. Regarding the back pedaling distance for brake engagement, internals will likely be version 17 discs or 23 discs. For both, brand new the disc pack thickness is about 0.75" provides 1/8 turn back pedal to brake, but worn disc packs around 0.68" or so and function fine. I even have one that is missing a disc with total thickness 0.7" and works fine but needs 1/4 turn for braking. If you 1/2 turn (180 degrees), I think too many missing discs.

 

[Hoagie57]

I did- it was Glenn Brown in San Clemente. Spoke at length on the phone and he seemed knowledgable about the parts he sells and the process he used to rebuild them. I readjusted the cone nut and it seems a little better. Although the pedals/chainwheel turn very slowly when walking the bike. I have heard this is called "ghost pedaling" It seems to pedal ok and brake ok. On a coaster brake bike should the pedals/ chainwheel move forward "as if someone is pedal" even though the bike is just rolling as I'm walking it?

Yup I knew it! Glenns work "looks" beautiful but never works correctly. Also a good "BS"er lol
You found your problem. Not rebuilt correct. but sure does look pretty. Bought one myself but never again.

 

[mr.cycleplane]

the new departure coaster brake is not my favorite because it has what i feel are design issues and maintenance of them varies! the arguement for 'oil this and grease that' is a preference thing. my opinion on that is that oil dissolves grease over time-i think everyone can agree-you need grease on the bearings. let's move on to the problem as i see it. you describe lost motion-too much 'play/spinning' of the crank to either engage or stop the bike. in the n.d. hub this can mean there is not enough-yes not enough-of the brake shoes/brake washers which wear with time. this means the stack of brake washers gets smaller-think about the 60-70 years of use/abuse the hub you are riding on! this in turn means that to engage forward motion the driver has to 'travel' further out of the clutch sleeve/brake sleeve compression pieces. the culprit in that group is usually the 'c' shaped transfer spring-replace it. (allows the piece the driver enters (clutch sleeve to engage with the brake sleeve compression piece that sits on top of the washers) the next thing are the brake washers themself. the original all steel are in a constant state of rubbing-almost like having the brakes on and if not properly lubed -you're getting a nice work out! to improve braking-replace with the steel/bronze combo brake washers as these grab/brake far better. don't want to spend the money on a new set-at least add another pairing(one with the 3 tabs and the other round to your existing stack of washers). this will increase the size of the stack of washers-replacing thinning brake washers. (you may have to 'experiment' with the stack size). with the stack up to original spec now-the driver won't have to move as far(disconnecting from the clutch sleeve/brake sleeve compress group) and also on braking-will engage sooner-improving braking engagement (a seperate thing from stopping). make sure all the washers are on the brake support sleeve(part of the left side cone-the part the brake shoes are stacked on)-sometimes one hangs up and doesn't end up in the hub slots-raises havoc on the next ride! proper adjustment of the driver cone is a skill that must be mastered-this is measured at the outside of the wheel-12 and 6 oclock so to speak-not 9/3 oclock. rock the wheel slightly. there must be just enough free play-sometimes 'felt but not seen' usually seen as no more than 1/16" at the rim! this is true for most hubs. as far as the ghost 'peddler' i am going to take a guess the hub was packed with thick amber grease and this is loosely grabbing the internals-causing the sprocket to move and in turn the chain-chain wheel. my opinon-use a white lithium grease(or phil wood grease-excellant!)-forget the oil. oil washes away thick grease over time. the white bearing grease(or the phil wood stuff) has a tendency to 'melt' when the hub warms up and provides a sort of oil for the shoes. (heh-all the racing bikes use it!) again a preference-based on use and many miles of riding. in closing(sorry for the long winded rap) add a couple more brake washers-re adjust right side cone to allow some free play-not too loose! you should notice improved engagement and 'faster' braking(movement of the crank will be reduced). make as many 'corrections' as needed-this is how you learn.

 

[AS-1]

Yup I knew it! Glenns work "looks" beautiful but never works correctly. Also a good "BS"er lol
You found your problem. Not rebuilt correct. but sure does look pretty. Bought one myself but never again.

Don't be shy. Tell us what you think.

 

[piercer_99]

Easy fix, tear it down and rebuild it.

As mentioned, the transfer spring is probably shot as well, if the clutch isn't disengaging properly.

you do not need the assembly tool, if you have one use it, if not, it is still pretty simple to do.

 

[Hoagie57]

Don't be shy. Tell us what you think.

I just did! If someone is selling crap 💩 wouldn't you want to know. NEVER been called shy. 🤣

 

[RetroSpec]

Yes, I suppose "lesson learned" for me. However, it can be repaired and fixed and that's what I going to do this week. It should take that long unless I need rather obscure parts. If I need a spring or something non-standard are they easily purchased from CABE members or trusted Ebay vendors?

 

[1817cent]

I got my transfer spring from Gordon here on the Cabe.
@Gordon

 

[1817cent]

Also, the spring can look fine but but be defective. Always replace when you open up the hub unless you a certain it is new and ok.

 

[ian]

I have a spare transfer spring that I got from @Gordon . He might have a couple laying around.