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How do you clean out the rust inside the frame without removing the rust on the outside the frame?

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I do have an air compressor with a blow tip, maybe that could work. I also have some cylindrical wire brushes I got specifically for cleaning out parts of the bike like this. The only concern I have is getting them stuck inside the tube, as they're short and need a socket extender to get deep inside the seat tube. What kind of cleaner do you use, @Drosentreter? I've heard of POR15 from the VW guys, but I don't have any on hand. I might see about getting POR15, but do I need the full kit, or can I get away with just a small can of POR15 paint? I do have some sprayable rust inhibitor I haven't used yet. Would that work? I'm trying to save as much money as I can right now, and if I can avoid spending any, that'd be even sweeter.
Take the wire brushes and get as much of the rust as possible and spray some WD40 down the tubes and that should take care of your problem Austin... Good luck...
 
Okay first off, sorry for the delay in replies. The past week has been... nuts. Second, thank you all for the replies with various tips and tricks to slow/stop/remove the rust inside my frame. Based on your advice, I think what I'll do is get a fridge coil brush to clean up the seat tube as best as I can, then use some of my brass wire brushes and a drill to try and clean up the bottom bracket and headset as best as I can. I'll then use my air compressor to blow out whatever dust and debris I can. I know a lot of people recommended plugging the frame and pouring POR15 into the frame, and I definitely want to try that at some point, but I think I'll try using used ATF instead. I already have some in stock, since I was mixing it with acetone to make a rust-busting solution for use on another, even rustier bike. Once I'm in a better financial position, I'll definitely look into POR15, but right now, I'll just make do with what I have.

For those who were wondering how the bearings rusted up, my guess is that there's so much rust chunks and dust inside the frame, that just moving the bike around as much as I did allowed that junk to work its way inside the bearing cups from the inside. It looks like there's enough space between all the parts for it to do that, at least from what I can tell. Plus, the rust just wiped off the bearing cups and bearings, so it was really getting stuck to the grease, what little was on everything at the time.

One last question: how do you suggest I plug up the frame? I could probably make do with duct/gorilla tape, if I could use a hair dryer or heat gun to peel it off cleanly, but I don't know if there are any other alternatives. Any suggestions for that?
 
Okay first off, sorry for the delay in replies. The past week has been... nuts. Second, thank you all for the replies with various tips and tricks to slow/stop/remove the rust inside my frame. Based on your advice, I think what I'll do is get a fridge coil brush to clean up the seat tube as best as I can, then use some of my brass wire brushes and a drill to try and clean up the bottom bracket and headset as best as I can. I'll then use my air compressor to blow out whatever dust and debris I can. I know a lot of people recommended plugging the frame and pouring POR15 into the frame, and I definitely want to try that at some point, but I think I'll try using used ATF instead. I already have some in stock, since I was mixing it with acetone to make a rust-busting solution for use on another, even rustier bike. Once I'm in a better financial position, I'll definitely look into POR15, but right now, I'll just make do with what I have.

For those who were wondering how the bearings rusted up, my guess is that there's so much rust chunks and dust inside the frame, that just moving the bike around as much as I did allowed that junk to work its way inside the bearing cups from the inside. It looks like there's enough space between all the parts for it to do that, at least from what I can tell. Plus, the rust just wiped off the bearing cups and bearings, so it was really getting stuck to the grease, what little was on everything at the time.

One last question: how do you suggest I plug up the frame? I could probably make do with duct/gorilla tape, if I could use a hair dryer or heat gun to peel it off cleanly, but I don't know if there are any other alternatives. Any suggestions for that?
Got any cork top or wine bottles or rubber stoppers work really well.. Good luck Austin...
 
How about spraying WD-40 inside the frame?

The manufacturer says "While the 'W-D' in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal."
 
How about spraying WD-40 inside the frame?

The manufacturer says "While the 'W-D' in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal."
The main ingredient of WD-40 is fish oil.. I even use it on my hands and fingers fot my arthritis....
 
The main ingredient of WD-40 is fish oil.. I even use it on my hands and fingers fot my arthritis....


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I agree with the idea that once you get the big stuff out , not to worry about it

There is a product used on road bike frames , for this purpose , Frame Saver I think its called .
you basically have to cover up all the frame openings and spray it in and tip / turn the frame to get it to cover inside tubes.

Other obsessive compulsive road bike guys with steel frames , that dont want to pay for the Frame Saver product , do the same : seal the openings and instead pour ATF inside , then turn / tip the frame rotisserie style to get the fluid to coat everywhere.

If you use either , though you might want to test patch what happens if excess gets on the outside .... might end up staining your perfectly rusted exterior.


Personally, I agree with the idea that once you get the big stuff out , not to worry about it, grease the BB shell interior and seat tube where the post sits and ride on should be fine.

I think this is good advice. Most of the time the concern about rust inside the frame is overblown. Frames can certainly develop surface rust inside, but the amount of rust in a frame not exposed to internal water will generally be small. Frame Saver has become the de facto standard for those who really want to coat the interior of a whole frame. It's usually guys with high-end, older steel road bikes. I wouldn't worry about a bike with no signs of water entrapment, but I would certainly take a closer look if the frame shows signs that it had water in it (look to the low points on the frame). If it makes you feel better, do the Frame Saver thing inside the tubes. But based on air alone, and with reasonable storage, it would generally take several lifetimes to rust through these older, heavy steel frames.

All of the heavier weight, steel frames I've seen that rotted from the inside had substantial water entrapment for significant periods of time. If the water freezes, it will split the frame at a low point, often around the bottom bracket or back in the chain stays. If you see signs of water entrapment, then a closer inspection is needed. One option for cleaning is a cable-driven brush that connects to your bench grinder's take-off. After cleaning the particular area subject to water, you can spray in Frame Saver.
 
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