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How do you guys bust rust this bad?

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Yup. Busting rust loose is the key. Then just a matter of grease including elbow. At least it is rust and not galvanized aluminum to steel. I had a galvined alum post smushed all the way down and the extreme measure was hook up to my truck and pull out. That did not even work.
I had a rusty Schwinn straight bar with a stuck seat post that wouldn't come out even when it was strapped down to my dad's car hauler trailer with the winch yanking on the seat post. Then again, if I had just allowed the seat post to soak in some PB Blaster or something for a while, it probably would've worked. I'll definitely take my time getting this one out. Thanks.
 
Hey Austin, I know of your dilemma all to well. If you can get a brass drift you could knock out those bearing cups from the inside out... Once your done with that you could soak them in apple cider vinegar for a few days and the rust ill eat away from the cups should clean up... Good luck... Razin..
I actually got those bearing cups out just earlier this week! They're completely useless though. I'm going to need to get some new cups if I want to ride this thing. Thanks!
 
Also, I guess no one has said this yet...if your ball bearings are seized in the cups, there will be pits in the bearing surfaces. Aka the bearings are Beyond Economic Repair.
The crank bearings in this looked like walnuts! Lol I had to cut the cranks off of this one because someone welded the Left pedal to the crank. But believe it or not, the seatpost and stem came right out!View attachment 1575922

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Yeah, I learned that not too long ago on one of my last projects. The bearing cups on this bike are definitely Damaged Beyond Specification, so they'll have to be replaced if I want to ride this bike.

That's a nice one you've got there! Looks like yours is just as rusty if not even more so than mine! I know I definitely want to build this one if the damage I've found isn't too extensive, but what I don't know is how I want to build it. Part of me would like to build it up as a "barn-find survivor," kind of like yours, but on the other hand, I'd really love to make it into a rat rod bike, with some equally rusty, though not exactly "correct" parts.
 
A little over a week ago, I tried doing a light "power wash" with the hose attachment to try and clean off some of the moss growing on the frame. I don't think I did much that way, but it didn't seem to hurt the bike at least.
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Looks like someone spilt either some paint or tar all over this bike at some point. I think I can get some of it to come off, but I don't know if I'll be able to get rid of it all.
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The bearing cups are all junk. I highly doubt I'll be able to use any of these at all. They're all in probably the worst condition I've ever seen!
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I did find something while hosing this bike down that I had missed before. There's a small hole and dent on the inside of the left chain stay. I don't know if it's so bad that I can't ride it without welding it up, but I at least hope it's not so bad that I can't ride this bike without at least welding it shut.
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The dropouts are nice and straight, but the left fender brace mount... not so much. It's not such a big deal that it ruins the whole bike for me, but I do what to fix it.
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Yours had moss too?! Nice! I'm letting mine live as long as it can...lol
These frames are tanks, the hole looks like it's from tire wear, as long as it's not bubbly from rust, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Have fun with it, ride it and enjoy it...until you can't!

2 crescent wrenches will help you get that fender brace tab back in shape. I recommend these smooth jaw pliers to anyone that wants to straighten drop outs, they have great clamping force and don't mar (in the right hands....but some people can break a brick with a Q-tip!). The smaller set even works well for reworking sheetmetal, think bent fender and chainguard tips. They come in handy a little bit of everywhere really.
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Got all the bearings and bearing cups out earlier this week! I took the frame over to a friend, who busted out each cup like it was nothing. Turns out all I needed was to place the frame on a concrete floor, with a wood block for bracing, and knock out each cup with a punch and hammer!
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I mocked up a wheel and tire to see if everything lined up right, and thankfully, the wheel lines up dead even between both the chain stays and seat stays! I didn't notice it until later, but the right seat stay looks to be dented inward just a little bit. I don't know if that means this bike is unrideable as-is, but it doesn't seem to affect the alignment of the rear wheel at least.
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A better look at what was (and wasn't) removed from the frame.
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Not only did we get the bearings/cups removed, we also removed the seat, seat clamp, head badge and head badge bolts.
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Here's where we didn't make much progress. My friend tried a number of different ways to remove the seat post, including hammering it down into the seat tube and welding this piece of angle iron on top and twisting it in the vise or hammering it from underneath. Wouldn't budge, and in fact, was ready to break. So, it looks like I'll need to soak the tube in some rust penetrant for a while, but after that, I'd like to try tapping the inside of the seat post, threading a bolt deep inside of it, and twisting it in a vice or pulling it with an axle puller. That's not going to happen for a while though, but at least I've got a few ideas on how to remove it.
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With the bearing cups out, I can now get an idea of what the red paint originally looked like!
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Thankfully, the bottom bracket's not in bad shape.
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So, that's where I'm at now. If I can wait patiently for long enough, I should be able to get that seat post out and start building this frame back up!
 
Yours had moss too?! Nice! I'm letting mine live as long as it can...lol
These frames are tanks, the hole looks like it's from tire wear, as long as it's not bubbly from rust, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Have fun with it, ride it and enjoy it...until you can't!

2 crescent wrenches will help you get that fender brace tab back in shape. I recommend these smooth jaw pliers to anyone that wants to straighten drop outs, they have great clamping force and don't mar (in the right hands....but some people can break a brick with a Q-tip!). The smaller set even works well for reworking sheetmetal, think bent fender and chainguard tips. They come in handy a little bit of everywhere really.
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Awesome! I'm hoping to breathe new life into this one as well. It's kind of funny, I never thought I'd own an original Black Phantom (or at least the frame,) but now I'm on the other side of the fence. Suddenly, I'm part of the "Black Phantom Club!" If that small hole isn't anything to worry about, then I'mm just leave it as is.

I failed to mention it earlier, but I did get the fender brace tab mostly straightened. My friend whacked it with a hammer a few times on his work table, and while it's not perfect, it's better than it was before. Thanks for the advice though! I'll have to try it next time!
 
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