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I've used Dry Film Coating on the skirt of the piston and a Thermal Barrier on the top of the piston, also both valves top and bottom the combustion chamber of head. I pined the tops of the valve seats in three places.The pic of head and piston have coating already,head is NE.pic of 2 heads are the same WC-1 with 10mm plug hole left one milled and reshaped ready for thermal coating.this stuff works great.hope you like Ray
Hi Bud Good to hear from you yesterday took more parts in to be coated,I should have them back in 2 weeks.I'll post some pics of them whem I get them.The coating is defintely best for both WC-1 and NE cylinder,even if only doing the piston .I got my whizzer from new in 1999 and have had a chance to see all the different things done to help fix the problems.we where having,oil purging,valve seats lifting,milling head and then it gets a hair line crack near spark plug hole with 14mm plug heads.Don't forget to advance your timing 1 tooth WC-1 or NE and set your lifters at .009 exhaust and .007 intake for the WC-1. .006 intake and.008 exhaust for HP cams.When we first got our HP cams they didn't come with mushroom lifters,we used caseharden lifters,whizzer didn't use them and the lifters mushroom them self.I have some of the casharden lifters if you want them I can give them to you.Any ways I think its always good to give it to fresh eyes,their are 7 thousand of us out there with the same questions.Ray
OK the parts got back from the coaters and also had the head,cylinder and exhaust manifold outter parts done in I.V.D. Ion Vapor Deposition This stuff is 99.9% pure aluminum vaporized and applied in a vacuume chamber.Ialso put in a air oil separator inside of the valve tappet area chamber to help the crank case ventaltion Reshaped the copper head gasket to fit the head properly. Open up the intake port to 20.8mm to use a 22mm carburetor if needed.All thats left to do is lap the valves.Any Whizzer people out there with either WC-1 or NEs? Any thoughts about this stuff anyone? Has anyone done anything similar? Thanks Ray
I'm impressed with your efforts to combat the overheating. Are you performing the machining work? I work at a machine shop and I'd like to "hot up" my motor someday, just having too much fun riding it to tear it apart! Keep us posted on your project...
Hi Bud Some of the quickest and easiest has been milling 60 thousand off head, that moves the compression up from about 90 to about 115, making it easier to start and idle.You should also use a copper head gasket besides helping it to run cooler you can use it over and over no need to replace.Also make sure head bolts don't bottom out, check the ones by the intake and exhuast.Inside the exhuast port at the top of the port near the valve there is sometimes a small casting extrusion if there is it needs to be removed with a Dremel grinder on the carburetor make sure that all spacers macth the opening.Advance the camshaft one tooth,advanced means the camshaft is rotated counter-clockwise one dot.after these changes you should run a strong 40 to 45 MPH if needed.you should also have a front brake to help stopping.I'll take some pics of the different carbs that Whizzer has used and the lifters.let me know if I can be of any help.Oh and I wish I knew your trade I have gone to deffernet shops to find someone,there aren't alot of shops that are set up to do this kind of work I can do a little back yard stuff
Thanks for the info Ray!
Yeah I'm no machinist but I'm slowly learning. Our shop is very well equipped and I work with some really talented "old timers"...I'm pretty lucky in that regard.
Not sure if I'm ready for my little bike to do 40mph, I think I'd want to beef up the frame or maybe even switch frames. Add front brakes for sure and a front springer fork...maybe get into it this winter. What do you think for front brakes? Got any spares you'd be willing to sell?
Hi Bud and Thanks,I went through some of my stuff and found my old Whizzer wheels that I had replace on my 99 Whizzer with workman wheels.I did find front and back drum brakes,only one front and 2 back drums.I'm looking for S-2 rims to put them on there setup for 105 spoks. the front drumis a Arai New,I bought these back about 3,4 years.I think I can locate them if you would like.back then the front was 75.00 and back 85.00.Thats great becoming a machinist its a great trade.I served 3.5 years as a apprentices to become a bricklayer and I served under some great old timers too, I miss them.heres some pics of what the drum brakes look like Thanks Ray
Ray, yes I'm interested in the front drum brake. I'd be lacing it into a Worksman, if it's not drilled for those spokes I could open the flange holes. Let me know if you're willing to part with it and how much you want or if interested in trades?
And thanks for all the tip's, like I said I'd like to eventually re-work the motor on my bike. Just finished Burt Munro's biography, "One Good Run" by Tim Hanna (i think), what an inspiring story! He was an amazing man, I highly recommend it and of course the movie "The Worlds Fastest Indian" if you haven't seen it already....
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I've been meaning to see the movie just haven't made the time,i hear it's good.also some good news i can still get the front drum brakes, the back ones are all sold.he has 20 front drums left,he'll sell each one of them to me for $75.00 plus shipping and $5.00 more for the drum clip.let me know what you think,i'm going to probably get a few more for myself.with regard to trading i'm sure we can work something out.Thanks Ray
If you get the DVD, be sure to check out the original documentary in the bonus section called "Offerings to the God of Speed", amazing....
As far as the brakes, are they NOS or what? Have you used the front drum brake on your Whizzer? I'm interested, let me know...Thanks!
Hi Bud the drums are NOS but i don't know what year.i'm using them on both my vintage schwinns,one has H motor and the other one is a 300 motor that i have coming.to me they work just fine.i'll be sure to see the documentary too.i'll wait to hear from you Thanks Ray
It's been about a week now that the bike has been running,there has been a few minor issues.first i couldn't get it to idle,so i advance the cam one tooth,that help but still not able to idle.the barrow at the end of the throttle cable was pulled in about 3/4"on the carb side.fix that but still no idle on it's own.the adjustment at the other end,handlebar side was all the way out for the highest idle,same problem with this end,throttle cable pulled inside the adjustment.VOILA!!! she now idles.timing is set at 14 degree from factory but can be moved to 28 degree by moving the trigger plate forward.the carb main jet went from#80 to#85 with the needle jet set at the 4th groove from the bottom.may have to go to a #88 .the temperature went from the high 500 F to about 300 F BIG DIFFERENCE with heat coated parts.will have to run the motor for a few more hundred miles to see the final out come.time to have fun. Ray
It's been a few weeks now and the whizzers temp is in the 200F and she is picking up nicely.no belt slipping.had to move up one more jet size #88.we rode our whizzers from whittier to the fullerton airport about 6 miles one way,ate lunch there and rode back.keepping it under 25mph for the break-in did 35mph in a few places becaue he was being a show off.there's 125 miles on it now,the holidays have slowed things down some but still having fun.will give a report in a couple of weeks. Ray
Bairdco is putting a ride together from El Dorado Park in Long Beach to huntington Beach.Bob and I are going on this one,It's about a 30 mile ride mostly along the coastline to Huntington Beach.That will be tomorrow Sunday April 3rd at about noon.There will be about 40 plus bikes going.I'll post some pics of the ride. Ray