Hub Hole Size .105 & .120 Spokes?

[Henryford2]

Can anyone tell me what the correct hole size would be for a "straight" (not butted) .105" and a .120" spoke for the hub? Thanks

 

[GenuineRides]

these should help, yet there might be some additional clearance space for "play" plus some tapper in the hub hole to accommodate the bend in the spoke end

 

[Henryford2]

Thanks, the hole in the hub has to be larger than the diameter of the spoke in order to lace the hub and get around the bend in the spoke. My question is how much "larger" does the hole have to be for a .105 and .120 spoke and "safely" be used. I know this is an approximate, but I'm trying to avoid the "hit and miss" technique.

 

[Archie Sturmer]

I recall my Bendix coaster brakes were marked 36-13 for the 36 each 13 gage holes for 14 gage spokes.
maybe there is a 1-gage larger (smaller gage #) rule of thumb?

 

[Classic Cool Rides]

Thanks, the hole in the hub has to be larger than the diameter of the spoke in order to lace the hub and get around the bend in the spoke. My question is how much "larger" does the hole have to be for a .105 and .120 spoke and "safely" be used. I know this is an approximate, but I'm trying to avoid the "hit and miss" technique.

I’ve built up a lot of vintage hubs from the ‘30’s thru ‘50’s with 12ga stainless steel spokes ( aka .105)
And all I’ve done to enlarge the holes in the hub flange is put a micrometer on the spokes I’m using and put a micrometer on the drill bit I’m using, to make sure they are identical size .... or at least the drill bit is .0025” ( 2 fine frog hairs) larger.
I’ve never had the J-Bend of the spoke require a larger hole than the spoke itself .....
If you lace the spokes thru the hub and feel they are resisting going straight to the rim ...... you might need to redrill with a very slightly larger drill bit. BUT ... I’ve never run into that problem yet.
Happy wheel-building! CCR Dave

 

[Henryford2]

Great help, the answer I was looking for. Thanks again.